So now that we've got a handle on our foundation, it's time to discuss blush and its benefits. Blush is usually an overlooked beauty product, as its benefits are more understated than a pair of red lips or smoky eyes. But blush done right can add youthfulness and even shave pounds off of your face! Blush generally comes in one of three forms: powder, cream and liquid. The type that is "best" for you will depend on the look you are aiming for.

Powder blush (see pic of Nars Blush at left) is the most common and easiest to work with. It offers more of a buildable, opaque look that can work for contouring or for a light dusting of the apples of the cheeks. Use it with a brush to get a professionally perfected look.

Cream blush (Lancome Colour Design Creme Blush pictured at right) is second in line in terms of the easiest blush to work with. It works great for a naturally flushed and dewy look. It is also ideal for mature skin, as it does not set into fine lines and wrinkles as powder blush would.

Liquid blush (see pic at left of Benefit's Benetint) is the most difficult to work with. Once applied, the liquid is quick to dry and can leave a stain like effect. But when done properly, liquid blush should give a post-light-jog or post-coital glow! Work fast or you'll end up looking like a blotchy mess!

I prefer to use powder and cream blushes (on myself and in my client appointments) as they are more friendly to work with. What's your preference?

Q: Ok rhi, so where is the apple of your cheeks, and would doing so make a round shaped face look even rounder?

A: Great question! The apples of the cheeks are the rounded, fleshy areas that become more visible when you smile. Using a blush here can actually give the illusion of less surface area on the cheeks, and add dimension to a round shaped face. The trick is to keep the blush application higher on the apples and not blend too far downward. Smile as you're applying your blush for a better view of the apples.

Here are some pointers:
For a subtle, dewy look use your two fingers (index and middle) to blend cream blush in circular motions atop the apples of the cheeks. Or for a brighter matte look, try a powder blush and brush. Apply the blush in circular motions atop the apples, and blend so the look is soft and diffused.

ARTIST TIP: If you feel like you've applied too much, dust a bit of translucent powder atop the cheeks to tone the blush down.

Recommended products:
MAC 129 Blush Brush ($41 CAD)

Related posts:
Q & A | Do I apply blush on the apples of the cheeks or I contour?
BEAUTY 101 | All About Face

Q: Do I apply blush on the apples of my cheeks or do I contour?

A: The answer to this one is really a matter of personal preference. I would recommend the apples of the cheeks method, as it’s the area where a natural flush would occur on the face. Blush applied on the apples gives the face a youthful glow and can instantly make a tired face look more awake.

A classic make-up artist trick is to actually use two shades of blush – one deeper and one brighter. Use a blush brush to contour with the deeper blush right under the cheekbone. Then, smile and apply the brighter shade on the apples of the cheeks. Blend the brighter shade upwards along the cheekbone and towards the ear. Be sure to blend well so that the two blushes fuse together to give the illusion of higher cheekbones.

ARTIST TIP: Be sure to apply a dusting of loose powder all over the face before applying blush. The loose powder will smooth the surface of the skin and absorb excess oil so that you can apply your blush smoothly and streak-free!

Here are more artist tips for building your kit. If you're a make-up addict like me, it's so easy to accumulate beauty products as time goes by. In the beginning as you're building your name and your kit, you'll want to give clients the impression that you're well-stocked with all the quality products that suit their needs. But as time goes by, and you lug your stuffed make-up case from job to job, you'll begin to wish there was a better and more efficient way to bring your product around.

I'm a huge fan of bringing only what you need - it's way easier on your arms and helps to lessen the chance of one of your beloved items going missing! Consider these tips for maximizing the most out of your kit space (and your valuable energy!):

Buy palettes.

a). Lipsticks
Use a thoroughly cleaned and disinfected make-up spatula to dig your lipsticks out of the tube. You can purchase an empty palette from a beauty supply company such as Japonesque (pictured at right). With the Japonesque palette, you have the option of adding your own lipstick colours (also great for use with cream concealers). Other cosmetic lines, such as Make-up Forever, offer their own refillable lip palettes that are customized to fit insert versions of their popular lipsticks.

I picked up my lip palette for $12 from a local Toronto company called Jordane Cosmetics . The palette pictured at right is from the Jordane website (I can't say that I have a blue lipstick in my kit!); the one that I bought came without any product, just the refillable container. The palette itself is made of a hard plastic that is durable, but doesn't crack when dropped.

What I love about this: You can easily mix back and forth between lipsticks to make up any colour your heart desires. Just make sure to do the mixing in a secondary container (or on the back of your hand) to keep the colours in the palette fresh and separated.

b). Eyeshadows
Many cosmetic companies offer easily customizable palettes. I stocked up on five eyeshadow palettes (addict much?) from my time working at Inglot (see picture at right), and now I'll have to go to Montreal (or Dubai, Australia or Poland!) whenever I need to restock on these.
At the lower end, Mary Kay and Avon offer refillable palettes while at the higher end, MAC, Make-up Forever and Bobbi Brown each do their version of a customizable palette.

What I love about this: Not only is this space saving within the kit, it's also environmentally friendly! No need for the excess product packaging that usually gets thrown away once the product is all used. Just drop in the refillable eyeshadow insert into the palette and go!

c). Blushes
Similar to the eyeshadow palettes, many cosmetic companies also offer blush palettes. My blush palette is from Inglot as well, but blush palettes are also available through MAC and Make-up Forever. Sometimes the palettes come mixed with a selection of eyeshadows, blushes and lip products, like NARS Bridal Palette featured at right. The mixed palette is a great kit addition for make-up artists who specialize in neutral and bridal looks.

What I love about this: Usually I use a combination of two blushes - one darker shade for contouring just slightly below the cheekbone, and one slightly lighter shade for highlighting atop the cheekbone (and blending out any harsh edges of the deeper blush tone). Having the blushes all under one roof means less fumbling around in the make-up kit looking for product and more time to spend on the fun stuff - actual application!

d). Concealers
Concealers come in all different colours and sizes: aside from the regular skin tone matching concealers, there are also colour correcting concealers. Rather than lug every colour of the colour correcting rainbow around, opt for an artist palette. I love the Lise Watier palette discussed in a previous post, and I also love the Make-up Forever colour corrector palettes that come in a range of tones to cover every ethnicity.

What I love about this: Just like lipsticks, when concealers are all in one container, you have the freedom of mixing. The Japonesque empty palette described above is also great for managing cream concealers in one place. Now you can mix with ease...like a true artiste!

Bring only what you need.
If you've already had a trial with a client and have gone through the items that you'll need, just bring those items. Be warned that sometimes your client may want to make adjustments to the look, so bring extra eyeshadows, blushes and lipsticks to have accessibility to different options. The foundation, concealer and powder will likely stay the same colour so you can ditch the ones you don't need and travel lighter!

WCH Women by Claudia Hung
Make-up by Rhia Amio

I'll be working with my friend triple threat Tina (that's a lot of T's!) tomorrow doing her make-up for a photoshoot. The photoshoot is for headshots for promotional use and for Tina's website. In preparation for tomorrow's shoot, we've been chatting back and forth on what the look should be. In that sense, make-up for headshots is very similar to bridal make-up - you want a natural and classic look, that still looks like you, but essentially your best-you. If a casting director decides to call you in, he/she will expect you to look as your headshot portrays you.

Here are some make-up tips to help get you picture perfect for that headshot (or even just as an easy everyday look!):

1. Groomed brows.
The power of a good brow should never be underestimated! A well-defined and well-kept brow frames the face, makes it look slimmer and also means you don't have to wear as much eyeliner! Eyebrows that are too thin can make you look aged, while brows that are too thick can be distracting from your best features. Finding that happy medium? See this post for some brow-know-how.

2. Even out skin tone with foundation and concealer.
A photograph can tend to highlight and saturate any uneven tones in the skin (i.e. undereye circles, redness, etc.). For undereye circles, use a peach or a pink based concealer to lift the dark tone and then top it off with your skin tone matching concealer to blend it with the skin.

3. Set with powder and touch-up.
Set your foundation and concealer with powder to help keep it in place. Be prepared to powder the T-zone in case it gets shiny under hot studio lights.

4. Contour the cheekbones with a darker shaded powder and apply a peachy-pink blush for a healthy glow.
Use a contouring powder (or a shade of matte powder that's 2-3 shades darker than your skin tone) and apply it just under the cheekbone to define the face. Blend well. Finish the cheeks off with some blush: a little blush adds contrast and helps to make sure you don't look washed out in the finished photo. With blush, avoid shimmer textures and also blend well (blending...that's key!).

5. Avoid heavy eyeliner and eyeshadow.
Heavy eye make-up can look dated, but ultimately it draws attention away from the overall picture and what should be the focus of the shot (you!). With heavy eye make-up, suddenly your photo can become 'look at this nice make-up' rather than 'look at this pretty face'. To avoid being overpowered by eyeliner, keep any eyeliner thin and tight to the eye. You can even skip lining altogether, and instead simply push the eyeliner into the base of the lashes to define the lashline and make the lashes appear fuller. Use eyeshadow colours that closely match your skin tone and definitely avoid shimmery/frosty textures. Curl your eyelashes and apply two coats of mascara.

6. Keep the lips neutral and avoid colours that are too 'unnatural' looking.
A safe shade is always no more than 2 shades darker than your own colour. Apply your lip colour and add a hint of lip gloss to add dimension and a healthy shine to the lips.

Now, all you have to do is smile...because that's always gorgeous! :)

Q: I’m going back to university in a week, and wonder if there are any products you would recommend that could help save some time but make me look great in the morning!

A: I am probably the worst person to talk to about a “quick” morning beauty routine. While I was away at university, I would purposefully sacrifice sleep or be late for class - all in the name of getting my full 40 minutes of make-up in the morning! But of course there are those days where you’re absolutely pressed for time and 40 minutes isn’t exactly reasonable. Fortunately, there are many products that do double-duty (and some steps you can skip) to help spare you time in the morning, and more importantly, get you looking fabulous and wide-eyed (even when that venti latte hasn’t kicked in just yet)!!

Try these get-ready tips when pressed for time in the morning:
1. Use a tinted moisturizer.
A tinted moisturizer adds a hint of colour and moisture to the skin in one easy step. No need for a brush - just blend the product well into the skin using your fingers!
Approximate time needed: under a minute

2. Use a concealer.
I find that with age (ahem, experience) and late nights of blogging my undereye circles can be quite pronounced come the morning. One of my absolute morning make-up must-dos is concealer – I look alien without it. Since my undereye circles are particularly complex, I actually use two products to help brighten the area up: a) Peachy-pink concealer to lighten the dark brown/purples undertones of the circles (try Laura Mercier's Secret Concealer)and then b). a flesh-toned concealer to blend the neutralized area with my own skin tone. I find using concealer makes the world of difference on my own face - if I had even less time to get ready, concealer is still one of those products that I would be sure to sneak in!
Approximate time needed: 3 minutes

3. Add some eyeliner + mascara.
Line the upper eyes to help open up the eye area and make the whites of the eyes appear brighter. (Big-eyed beauties can usually get away with just curling the lashes and adding mascara, but my eyes need a little more attention!). You can use whichever you prefer: a pencil, gel or liquid liner. I always recommend a gel or liquid liner simply because they last. Curl your lashes and top with 2-3 coats of your go-to mascara.
Approximate time needed: 5 minutes

ARTIST TIP: To keep the eyeliner long-lasting, apply a layer of eyeshadow primer in a neutral colour atop the eyelid.

Products to try: Cover Girl's Line Exact - the felt tip of this product makes lining the eyes as easy as using a marker! Recommended for novice to pro liquid liner users.

4. Add an instant glow with a luminscent bronzer.
I use a large-sized powder brush to apply bronzer in the 3-shaped motion along the forehead, cheekbones and underneath the jawline. Then, I dust any excess along the bridge of the nose. Keep the bronzer concentrated on the prominent areas of the face (think of where the sun hits the face first) and don't overdo it. Remember with bronzer, less is more and orange is just...bad.
Approximate time needed: under 1 minute

ARTIST TIP: Dust a layer of loose translucent powder on the face first for the bronzer to glide on smoothly.

Products to try: NARS Bronzers - these glide on like a dream! The product itself is highly pigmented so a couple of swipes with the brush is all you need.

5. Dust a peachy-pink blush on the apples of the cheeks.
Peachy-pink is a universally flattering colour (just think Orgasm by NARS - the much-loved product by industry insiders and beauty junkies!). Simply smile to make your apples of the cheeks more visible and add blush using a brush. Blend well. The effect is a soft and healthy glow that adds an instant warmth to your morning complexion.
Approximate time needed: 1 minute

Products to try: NARS Orgasm. Just like their bronzers, NARS blushes glide on smoothly, making them super easy and pretty much foolproof to blend.


6. Skip the lipliner and lipstick. Just gloss it up!
Use a gloss with a bit of colour instead of lipliner and lipstick, which can be way more time consuming. When choosing a gloss, opt for a colour that is two shades darker than your own lip colour. Remember that the gloss will glide on sheer, so a colour that looks darker as a gloss will work with your own natural lip colour and appear more transparent. As the day goes on, the gloss will be easier to touch up as well.
Approximate time needed: 1 minute

Products to try: MAC's Lychee Luxe, Maybelline Pink Sorbet. These peachy pink glosses are flattering on nearly all skin tones and will work well to complement your blush colour!

So there it is in about six (ok, more) steps. It’s not exactly a five-minute routine, but what I do like to stress is to focus on your favourite feature and make that stand out. If it’s your eyes that you like to draw attention to, focus on eyeliner, mascara and some gloss. If your lips are your favourite feature, go in with your lip brush, lip liner, lipstick or lip gloss (or all of the above!) and add some mascara to the lashes. If you’ve got great skin to show off, add some bronzer and blush for a gorgeous glow!

Beauty doesn't have to be complicated - just take a few minutes for yourself in the morning and you'll be amazed at how much better you can feel throughout the day!

MORE TIPS:
Here are a couple of things you can do to ease the morning routine:

Groom your brows.
A well-maintained arch is sometimes all the make-up you need. Good brows frame the face and polish off any make-up look. To get good brows, check out this post.

Maintain a proper daily cleansing routine and apply moisturizer after washing your face.
You won’t feel the need to use foundation when your skin is naturally glowing. Maintaining a consistent cleansing routine is essential to glowing skin. (We all know the aftermath of not removing last night’s make-up: raccoon eyes + increased chance for break-outs!) Proceed to apply moisturizer after each time you wash your face.

Hope that helps!
Rhia

If you have a make-up related question, please feel free to email me at rhia[at]artistrhi[dot]com.

Ok so we all know and love the benefit of quality brushes for our make-up application, but that doesn't mean we have the same fuzzy feeling about the prices usually associated with them. I had been anticipating the Canadian Make-up Show in order to stock up on Crown brushes (among other highly coveted make-up goods) . A grand total of 45 minutes at the Crown booth, a swipe of the card and a bag of goodies later - I was a happy camper!

I've spent a lot on brushes throughout the years - some worth the cost, some not so much. Crown Brushes and Elegant Faces are two great places to check out for affordable and good quality brushes. At the Crown booth, I didn't see a brush more expensive than $15! I know - I was in awe. I walked away with absolute steals for the prices I paid (I felt like I was the woman in the IKEA commercial! "Start the car! Start the car!") For the aspiring artist, it's always great to have multiple back-up sets of brushes, especially when you do weddings and group appointments. Here are some recent additions to my kit from from Crown and Elegant Faces and their comparable higher end counterpart:

Elegant Faces Foundation Brush ($24) vs. MAC #190 Foundation Brush ($38.50)
Both brushes have a concentrated amount of synthetic bristles that taper towards the tip and make them perfect for blending. I equally like the way foundation glides on with both of these brushes, but with the price difference the obvious favourite is the Elegant Faces Foundation brush (top brush above).
The verdict: Steal!

Crown C309 Studio Professional Jumbo Chisel Powder Brush ($10) vs. MAC #150 Large Powder Brush ($50.50)
The Crown Brush (top brush in picture above) is shorter handled, but has a concentrated amount of soft natural hair bristles just like the MAC Large Powder Brush (bottom brush). To build up powder coverage or apply a light dusting of powder, the Crown Brush is just as effective and definitely a better deal! Go for the steal!
The verdict: Steal!

Crown B2K Luna Series Unique Pointed Dome Brush ($9) vs. MAC #129 Blush Brush ($41)
I love MAC's Blush Brush for the soft-rounded dome that allows for smooth blush application when both contouring or dusting the apples of the cheeks. Crown's Pointed Dome Brush is a comparable equivalent and blends just as well, but I'll admit that although the bristles are soft, they're not as soft as the bristles of the MAC brush. For the $40 difference in price, you can decide if it's a worthy trade-off!
The verdict: Steal!

Crown Badger Kabuki Brush ($8) vs. MAC #182 Buffer Brush ($55)
In this case, the MAC Buffer Brush is a clear winner. Yes, the difference in price should ensure there is a definite difference in quality, but you just need to rub your fingers across it to feel how soft it is and see how it has the most concentration of hairs. I also like how the MAC Buffer Brush has a taller handle and shorter bristles, which makes it perfect for buffing. The bristles of the Crown Kabuki are quite soft as well, but much too long for buffing the face. Either way you choose, this brush is a great addition to the kit for any make-up artist - just smooth the brush over your client's face after the application for a mini-massage treat!
The verdict: Splurge!

Check back as I'll also do a comparison post for eye make-up brushes!

Q: I have naturally prominent cheekbones which I would like to tone down. A lot of articles and videos out there are mostly focused on how to sculpt the cheekbones to make it pop. But in my case, I want it to appear more subtle and I can't seem to find any reference on how to do that. I wonder how you could achieve that? :)

-from YT, Toronto

A: First off, count your blessings - I'm sure you know that high, prominent cheekbones are considered an attractive attribute!! :) Those of us lacking prominent cheekbones spend plenty on products (and time!) trying to make our own cheekbones stand out...so, consider us all envious!

Ok, all envy aside, getting to your question...in order to "play down" your cheekbones, you have a couple of options:

1. Play up your other features to bring them 'forward' as well.
Add eyeliner to your top lashline, curl your lashes and add some mascara to make those eyes pop. Gloss the lips up with some shine to draw attention away from your cheekbones.

2. Add some blush.
I've heard this before where sometimes clients think they have "too much cheek". Although you may think it to have the opposite effect, applying blush can help to reduce a cheeky surface area. Depending on your skin tone, choose a peachy pink, soft pink or coral to complement your cheeks (as a reference, use the colour your cheeks turn when you're flushed).

3. If a blush is too bright for your liking, opt for a matte bronzer to accent the cheeks.
A deeper tone will create the illusion of this area of the face receding. Apply in this prescribed motion to avoid a streaky look (rather than a harsh contour, keep the bronzer soft and blended or else you'll end up drawing unwanted attention to the cheeks!)

Hope this helps, YT!

If you have a make-up related question you'd like to ask, shoot an email to me at rhia[at]artistrhi[dot]com. I look forward to hearing from you!

Riveting is MAC's rocker glam collection for Spring 2010. With heavy metal textures and vibrant loudmouth colours, Riveting is hardly a collection for the fading wallflower. For me, the most anticipated items of this collection have to be the matte nail polishes. It's honestly about time that a make-up powerhouse like MAC finally jumped the matte nail polish bandwagon (...or maybe it's a couple of seasons too late?!). Nail polishes in Studded Matte (think rocker glam silver sparkle but matte) and Wham, Bam Glam (a dark taupe) are definitely the most riveting pieces of this collection for me!

MAC Blush in Dirty Plum

I would have loved to have this blush on me for this shoot with Irem, but this sample came just a couple of days too late! Truth is, this is a lovely shade of plum, but hardly a shade of blush that most people can pull off in real life! Dirty Plum is a shade better suited to darker skin tones, unless of course your aim is to contour a la Grace Jones. :)

MAC's Riveting will be available as of February 18, 2010 at MAC stores and MAC counters.

The choice in make-up brushes out there is endless. If I had to narrow it down to only a few (I could only trim it down to six), here would be my 'essential' brush kit:

1. Powder Brush / Bronzer Brush
A large, natural-hair fibre brush that is used for applying powder or distributing bronzer all over the face. With loose powder, press the brush against the product and then tap twice to get rid of excess powder. Follow the natural contours of the face and blend using the brush.


2. Blush Brush
A medium-sized natural fibre brush that is used for distributing colour to the cheek area. Blush brushes can come in different cuts, including a tapered or a full edge. I prefer a rounded fuller edge for the one I regularly use.

Two ways to use the blush brush:

• Start at the ears and concentrate colour from the hollow of the cheek in towards the nose (don't go further than two fingers in).
• Smile and highlight the apples of the cheeks.

3. Crease Eyeshadow Brush
A pointed-tip eyeshadow brush made of natural fibres that allows for precise application of eyeshadow into the crease of the eye. I find these especially useful on Asian eyes for creating definition and dimension around the eye.


4. Tapered Blending Eyeshadow Brush
A second eyeshadow brush made of natural bristles that is great for blending eyeshadow colours, applying base colours, and applying a highlighting eyeshadow shade atop the browbone.



5. Angled Eyebrow Brush
A slanted natural bristled brush that is useful for sketching in eyebrows with eyebrow powder. If used wet, an angled brush can also be used as an eyeliner brush when mixed with eyeshadow. Be sure to clean the brush between each application, as the eyes are very sensitive.

6. Lip Brush
A synthetic fibre brush that is used to apply lipsticks or lip glosses. Using a synthetic bristled brush allows for maximal product transfer from the product to your lips; a natural bristled brush would absorb the product rather than distribute it.

The test for a heavy hander's true love of make-up occurs during the warmer summer months. Here are some tips to keep looking make-up great when it gets hot outside:

1. USE LESS. Go lighter on the application.

i.e. FACE

Opt for a tinted moisturizer instead of the usual liquid foundation. Keep in mind that tinted moisturizer provides minimal coverage so if you do desire something heavier, still go for the routine that you feel best in. You can always use a make-up primer to help keep your make-up in place. If you want coverage, but still don't want anything too heavy, try the next option.

• Apply moisturizer (for summer, try something lightweight, oil-free that has an SPF to protect against the sun).

• After moisturizer has absorbed into the skin (wait 5 minutes), start with a make-up primer. (Not a necessary step, but I always like to use it to help make-up last longer).

• Use concealer to mask any blemishes, lighten dark areas and balance out skin tone. Blend well.

• Set the look with a dusting of translucent powder.

Throughout the day, use blotting tissues to absorb oiliness, rather than re-applying powder all the time. Or if you do prefer a smoother look, you could always blot with the tissues and then refresh with a dusting of (loose or pressed) translucent powder.

2. FAKE A GLOW (without spending an excessive amount of time in the sun, which we all know has its damaging effects).

i.e. CHEEKS

• Get bronzed! Use a powder brush to sculpt the face and concentrate (and blend!) bronzer along areas where the sun hits - atop the cheekbones, along the sides of the forehead, and under the chin.

• Use a peach pink blush to compliment your tanned summer skin. This colour is universally flattering and instantly brings life to the face. Try NARS Orgasm.

• Add some shimmer. Use a shimmer powder, or shimmer cream and highlight just above the cheekbone (I love Revlon's Skinlights for achieving this). The effect is a dewy, tanned and healthy look to the skin.

3. WATERPROOF Your Make-up

i.e. EYES

Look for waterproof products to last against the heat (and sweat) of summer.

• liquid eyeliner - will last throughout the day, but I still wouldn't recommend swimming with it.

• waterproof mascara - use it and you won't suddenly discover that you've been walking around with raccoon eyes after a day out in the heat.

• eyelash curler - this beauty product is a staple from season to season!

• eyeshadow - The summer months mean skin is more prone to being oily. To help creaseproof your eyeshadow, prep the eyelid area with make-up primer and a dusting of powder. This helps the eyeshadow to resist gravitating towards the crease of the eye.

4. MOISTURIZE/PROTECT lips and skin (against sunburn and harmful UV rays).

i.e. LIPS

• Gloss it up. (If you want more of a colour kick, outline the lips with a lipliner and blend. Apply gloss over top.)

i.e. SKIN
• Use an SPF of at least 15. Formulas have improved considerably and are less greasy than in the past. Distribute evenly to any exposed areas of the skin.

---

MY ROUTINE: During summer, I usually use a combination of tinted moisturizer, concealer and translucent powder for face. For cheeks, I like bronzer plus two shades of blush (a deeper pink to contour, and a lighter pink for the apples of the cheeks)....and we can't forget Skinlights for its shimmer factor! For eyes, the whole nine yards: liquid eyeliner, eyeshadow, cream eyeshadow, mascara, curler, pencil eyeliner. For lips, liner plus gloss or liner plus Inglot Lip Duos. Clearly, it takes more than the heat of summer for me to sacrifice any part of my make-up routine, but that's what make-up is all about, have fun with it during any season!

Q: hi Rhia, I saw your post about Crown Brushes and was wondering what's your opinion of Crown brushes now that you've had the chance to use them for a while? I'm hoping to build a brush collection for my own everyday use, so I was wondering if I should buy Crown or maybe get brushes from Sephora or MAC? What do you think?

A: Thanks for the question! I still like the brushes for the original purpose I had bought them – to build my make-up artist kit and have back-up brushes for consecutive appointments. After getting the chance to work with them, it turns out my favourites from what I purchased are the foundation brush, large powder brush and kabuki brush. The brushes apply and blend product well, and feel smooth against the skin. One thing I did note when washing the large-sized brushes (blush brush, powder brush) was that the dye bleeds slightly once wet. Small price to pay for such an affordable line of brushes!

For your own personal use, it doesn't hurt to invest in a really good set of quality brushes. They feel better on your skin (and your skin deserves to be pampered!). As long as you properly take care of the brushes, they will last you a long time. You can find great quality brushes through Crown, Sephora, MAC and other department store brands. My first two professional brushes ever are by MAC and were given as a gift to me back in high school. The brushes are still in good condition to this day, and I’ve obviously gotten great use out of them as high school was a long time ago! For the larger sized brushes especially (i.e. powder, blush brushes), you'll feel and see the difference in how the make-up is applied. For that reason alone, quality brushes are definitely worth the investment!

Be sure to check out these sites/stores:
MAC Cosmetics
Industry Cosmetics (for Crown Brushes)
Sephora

Related posts:
PRODUCT REVIEW | Splurge vs. Steal Part I - Face Brushes
PRODUCT REVIEW | Splurge vs. Steal Part II - Eye Make-up Brushes
KIT ESSENTIAL | Essential Brushes

Oh Old Man Winter! Ok, I know we're not officially into winter just yet, but we might as well be with the colder weather AND the summer tan long gone by now!! If your skin is feeling a little lacklustre and you're in need of a little make-up pick-me-up, a cream highlighter is a great make-up product to insert into your routine! Here's my take on some tried and tested highlighters:

Laura Mercier Secret Brightener ($30 US)

photo: Laura Mercier

Love this multi-purpose highlighter that has a slight touch of shimmer. Use it to highlight atop the browbone, blend down the temple and atop the cheekbone for shimmer kissed look. Secret Brightener blends with ease and leaves a smooth finish - use it underneath the eyes to instantly brighten the darkest of undereye circles (yes, even mine) and top off with your concealer.

Yves St. Laurent ($40 USD)

photo: YSL

Industry celebrated and award winning Yves St. Laurent's Touche Eclat is a staple in the bags of make-up artists, beauty editors and models! This creamy highlighter gives smooth beautiful coverage in 4 different shades. Touche Eclat is marked at a hefty pricepoint of $40 USD, but the tube goes a long way (you only need to use a small amount per application!) Besides for a product touted as "8 hours sleep in a pen", the benefits of having it far outweight the costs! What I love about this cream highlighter is that it doesn't have any shimmer to it. I even like to swipe a stripe of it down the middle of the nose and blend it for a streamlined look!

Face Atelier

photo: FACE atelier

I swear by Face Atelier's foundations. The silicone-based formula is universally flattering to all skin types, but particularly a great choice for those with dry skin (and we all know with winter, everyone's skin is feeling a bit tighter/drier!). FACE Atelier's Ultra Sheer Pro highlighters are equally as lovable. The silicone-based formula glides on lightweight and blends easily into the skin. You can easily incorporate it into your routine by applying it overtop your foundation or adding it to either your foundation or moisturizer! Mix it with your foundation (ideally also silicone-based) for an instant dewy finish...or add a bit to your moisturizer and apply all over for a healthy and luminous skin glow! Ultra Sheer Pro comes in several tones including Opal (a pearl highlighter), Champagne (a pinky tone that can double as a blush), Peach (can also double as a blush) and Bronze (for a bronzed glow! self-explanatory!). Endless options, but always gorgeous looking skin!!

Benefit's Moon Beam

photo: Sephora

Ok as much as I try to be objective...or at least highlight the positive points about a product, I don't know what all the hype is about with Benefit's Moon Beam highlighter! (Moon Beam is always a feature product in beauty mags, and was even garnered the coveted Allure's Editor Choice Award). It takes a good amount of practice to get the hang of Moon Beam's consistency. Mind you, I do like the nail polish applicator that makes the product easy to apply...and the formula is potent - we're talking high-shine (I'll give Benefit props on that!) But in terms of overall usability, this product is not for the beauty novice, nor for the slow-fingered. Best technique of application: use the nail-polish like applicator to apply a series of tiny dots along the area you want to highlight, and then blend thoroughly (and immediately!). Moon Beam can be great for photoshoots because of the stark and concentrated highlighting contrast, but for an everyday routine, a little goes a long way!!

Important note:
Remember, a highlighting product will only work well on hydrated and healthy skin - it's not meant to replace a good moisturizer! :)

I find contouring an indispensable method. The modern contoured look is a lot more subtle, and definitely not the harsh lines reminiscent of the 80s (i.e. think Grace Jones). The trick to make contouring work is to make it look like it’s not there. When applied right, the (untrained) eye shouldn’t be able to detect your contour make-up. It should look like the hollows of your cheekbones – only better and deeper! To sculpt your best face yet, choose a shade that’s not more than 2-3 shades darker than your own skin tone. Remember darker colours make areas of the face recede, while using lighter colours act as a highlight. Be sure to avoid orange colours, as in some bronzers, as these will scream unnatural! Opt for a matte product, as this flat texture helps to absorb light and deepen the illusion of shadow. (Shimmer textures tend to have light reflecting particles and won’t provide the same illusion of depth).
How to apply:
Use an angled blush brush for a flawless application. The angled brush will deposit the majority of the product at the back of the cheekbone and automatically taper the application as it goes inward. For a better view, suck your cheeks in (fish face time!) to get a better view of where the hollows lie beneath the cheekbone. Concentrate the brush right at the top of the hollow and just below the cheekbone. Blend in towards the nose, stopping at two fingers width away from the nose.

Recommended products:
MAC #168 Large Angled Contour Brush
MAC Mineralize Skinfinish powders
MAC Full Coverage Foundation

Related posts:
BEAUTY 101 | Contouring the Face
Q & A | Do I apply blush on the apples of my cheeks or do I contour?

Q: Rhia, what's in your make-up kit?
A: So now that I've disclosed ALL of the make-up products I use to get myself normal-looking under ideal conditions (i.e. when I have at least 40 minutes to get ready - yes, that long), here are the products for those mornings when I'm strapped for time and have to set my make-up routine on auto-pilot. I would love to have a 5 minute face, but I'm afraid this mug needs way more make-up lovin' than that! Here are the Big Ten products I use to help my face wake up with make-up:

Part IV | What’s in My Make-up Kit: Auto-Pilot

FACE

1. MAC Tinted Moisturizer NC35
Moisturizes and adds colour in one

2. MAC Studio Fix C4
Adds more coverage and leaves a powdery finish

3. MAC Select Cover-up in Peach
Self-explanatory. During the work week, I average 5-6 hours sleep on a good night, and the peach concealer is a much-needed and much-loved step in the morning to play down the dark circles that characterize the past night's lack of rest. I add MAC Studio Fix in C4 above to blend this lighter layer in with the rest of my skin.

4. MAC Mineralize Skin Finish in Deep Dark
I use this powder with a big powder brush as a bronzer to help add colour and contour to my face.

5. Nars Orgasm Blush
Adding some blush is an instant way to make you look awake! I usually take my blushbrush and start blending from the ear in towards the nose, along where the cheekbone is. This deposits the most amount of colour closer to the hollows of the cheeks and helps add much-needed definition to my face!

EYES

6. MAC Paint
Still can't live without my MAC Paint! I would rather take a little extra time in the morning to do steps that keep my make-up long-lasting so I don't have to worry about it anytime throughout the day. I usually grab Paint in either Bare Canvas or Sublime Nature.

7. L'oreal Lineur Intense
Another day to day staple. Liquid liner can be a bit tricky initially, but once you master it, you're hooked. It's worth every bit the practice as it lasts all day! It's going to be tough to wean me off this product even later in life once my eyelids start drooping. My skin will be sagging, but I'll probably still be trying pull the eyelids up with my cateye sweep plus massive amounts of eyeshadow.

8. Inglot Eyeshadows

9. Eyelash Curler and Mascara

LIPS

10. Inglot Lipliner in #63

Total Make-up Time = 25 mins!

Ok, ok so I cheated up there, grouped multiple products and didn't factor in brushes, moisturizer, lip balm etc. But you get the point - I love my make-up!

For all installments of the What’s in my Make-up kit Series, check out:
Part I | What’s in My Make-up Kit: Face
Part II | What’s in my Make-up Kit: Eyes
Part III | What’s in My Make-up Kit: Lips
Part IV | Auto-Pilot

What do you use? Feel free to comment and tell me what make-up products work (or don’t work) for you!

Q: I've found that when I put on sunscreen, my face gets slightly moist (even when the lotion is completely absorbed), and that any powder on top (blush, foundation), goes on streaky as it "catches" on the sunscreen. It takes a long time for the sunscreen to be completely absorbed (back to normal skin consistency, anyway), so how do you apply powder foundation after (especially if you're in a hurry and don't have the time to completely dry out)?

A: There are a couple of options for SPF protection under your make-up application. You want to look for an oil-free face moisturizer that has an SPF built-in. If the moisturizer formula with SPF has been developed for the face, it should typically be less greasy and absorb into the skin better. Usually, you have to wait at least 30 minutes before any moisturizer is completely absorbed, but who has that kind of time to sit around and wait??? I use Neutrogena Moisture for face that comes in several versions along with one that incoporates an SPF. But what works for my skin, will not always be the same for what works for your skin.

To avoid the greasiness altogether, try a primer type product that has an built-in SPF instead. Along with having the benefit of an SPF, a primer product will help to prepare the skin for make-up application and help prolong the life of your make-up throughout the day. Since your routine consists mainly of applying powder foundation and powder blush, a primer would be perfect for smoothing out the surface of the skin. You should notice less the appearance of pores and slight lines once the powder foundation is applied atop primed skin. Here a couple of options to try:

Clinique City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25 helps to protect the skin against the harsh realities of the sun (with a choice of SPF ranging from 25 to 40). You can check out some of the reviews of the product here.

NARS popular primer also comes in an SPF version. The NARS Make-up Primer with SPF 20 is designed to have all the benefits of its predecessor, but comes in a more lightweight formula.

Before you commit to buying one product, I would suggest going to your local Sephora to obtain samples of the products you're interested in. That way you can test-run them and gage how your own skin reacts with the product before making the investment!

Q: Rhia, what's in your make-up kit?
A: I frequently get asked what I use on myself on a day-to-day basis, and the answer is that it really varies. It’s great to be a make-up artist, and to have so many make-up products at your disposal all the time! It gives you the freedom to change up your routine from day-to-day and the excuse of purchasing more products and rationalizing it by saying “I’m just buying it to add to the kit!” (Yeah right. My boyfriend has heard that one-liner so much that he no longer rolls his eyes!)

I wanted to write a bit about the products that I use on a frequent basis (why I use them and what they’re good for), but I realized that there are many to mention! I decided the best way to go about it to provide that type of detail was to post in a series of installments rather than one excessively long post.

Welcome to the first installment of the “What’s in My Make-up Kit Series”. You’ll see that most of the products may be familiar as I use them in my client applications and I’ve likely referred to them in past posts or product reviews.

In this installment, you will find my own Make-up Kit Essentials for the Face in the order that I use them (…along with further evidential proof that it takes efforts equal to that of a whole village to take me from just-woke-up to ready-to-face-the-world in the morning!):

Part I | What’s in My Make-up Kit: Face

MAKE-UP REMOVER
Inglot Make-up Remover

I swear by this stuff and am running low on my supply! The formula is heavy duty enough that it penetrates and breaks down my waterproof liquid liner and mascara without struggle and excessive rubbing, but the formula is not overly greasy and leaves the skin with a smooth baby's bum feeling.

CLEANSER
Biore Ice Cleanser for Blemish Prone Skin and Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash

I like to change up my cleansers from day to day. Otherwise, I feel like my skin gets too used to them and it has no effect. I usually go back and forth between the two bottles, alternating between day and night.

LOTION
Neutrogena Moisture for Combination Skin

I always follow cleansing with some moisturizing. I am a longtime devotee to Neutrogena Moisture. Neutrogena Moisture also has formulas for sensitive skin and another with an SPF so you can save time in the morning by having a moisturizer and sunscreen in one!

PRIMER
Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer

You'll see this product is highly celebrated throughout the make-up industry and is at the top of many "best of beauty" lists. I turned to this Smashbox primer after I ran out of the Inglot Primer that I had (can only get that in Montreal now!) The Smashbox primer was a bit more heavy and greasy than I was used to, but it did help my foundation to glide on smoothly and help it to last longer throughout the day. I recently purchased the Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer Light that is a reinterpretation of the original but better-suited for more oily and sensitive skin types.

FOUNDATION
MAC Studio Fix in C4 + sponge

I have sworn by MAC ever since high school mainly because of the range of foundation colour selection (and the affordable price range). Studio Fix is a foundation and powder two-in-one that leaves your skin with an even matte finish. It's quick and easy - with a couple of swipes of the sponge, you're all done! Depending on the day and where I’m going, sometimes I like to use liquid foundation. I usually opt for MAC Face and Body in C4 whenever I'm going for more of a finished look.

CONCEALER
MAC Select Cover-up in Peach (limited availability)
MAC Full Coverage in NC 30, NC 35
MAC Concealer Brush 194

I layer the peach concealer first using the concealer brush to brighten the dark circles under my eyes (seriously dark even with bright flash like in this pic at the end of the wedding slideshow). MAC Full Coverage is actually equivalent to their Studio Finish concealer (paste-like consistency), and like the name implies, is very heavy duty. Since I need more coverage but don't want it to be cakey, I mix the two colours NC 30 and NC 35 with some of my moisturizer to get the perfect colour, but still the opaque consistency required to cover up my bags!

POWDER
MAC Mineralize SkinFinish in Medium Plus with MAC Large Powder Brush 150

I use the large powder brush to dust my face with powder and set my foundation to help it last longer throughout the day. I lightly pat Vichy Dermablend Loose Translucent Powder under the eyes using either a sponge of a clean small eyeshadow brush. I don't blend this in until later when my eyeshadow is done. See tip here.

BRONZER
MAC Mineralize Skin Finish in Medium Dark or Deep Dark
Tarte Powder Bronzer
MAC Large Powder Brush 134

Bronzer helps bring my face to life! I would not leave the house without it. I use it with the large brush stroking along the sides of the face, just slightly below the cheekbone, and underneath the contours of the face for a trimmed, sun-kissed look!

BLUSH
NARS Orgasm
MAC Blush Brush 129

Another highly celebrated product throughout the world of beauty. It gives a great peachy pink instant glow to the cheeks that helps make you look healthy and awake. Just smile and blend away on the apples of the cheeks!

Check back to see all installments of the What’s in my Make-up kit Series for:
Part I | What’s in My Make-up Kit: Face
Part II | What’s in my Make-up Kit: Eyes
Part III | What’s in My Make-up Kit: Lips
Part IV | Auto-Pilot

What do you use? Feel free to comment and tell me what make-up products work (or don’t work) for you!

For the next few posts, we’ll be focusing on festive looks to get you dolled up for your holiday parties. So while you’re focusing on prepping for the parties you’ll be hosting and shopping for the people on your list, we’ve got your make-up tips covered here:

GET THE HOLIDAY LOOK | Red Lips
If you’re donning that little black dress for your holiday party, a pair of red lips is the perfect make-up match to complete the look. Red lips make a bold statement and can be an intimidating colour to buy (and wear!). But rest assured, there is a red out there for everyone!

How to apply:
Trace the desired shape of your lips with a matching red lipliner. Lipliner will help prevent lipstick from feathering into the fine lines around the mouth. Fill the lip in completely with lipliner to act as a base for the lipstick. Blot. For a sharp finish, use a lipbrush with your red lipstick and trace around the edges of the mouth. Then apply the lipstick directly to the mouth from the tube, swiping back and forth a couple of times on the top and bottom lip.

How to make it go the distance:
Once lipstick has been applied, blot with a one-ply tissue and reapply one more coat of lipstick. You can also take a large clean powder brush and while holding a tissue to cover your mouth, dust some translucent powder atop the mouth area using a brush. These methods will help stain the lips with some colour so if you end up caught under the mistletoe, you’ll still have some colour on the lips post-kiss!

Complete the look:
Keep the look balanced by going light on the eye make-up – a stroke of black liquid liner and neutral eyeshadow on the lids looks gorgeous with red lips. Red lips also have the tendency to make the face look washed out. Add blush/bronzer for colour and definition after applying lipstick, but use just a small amount so that the lips remain the strongest element of the make-up look.

Artist tips:
If red is still too bold, blot the colour slightly and apply a clear gloss atop to soften the look. If you're not a lipstick kind of girl, there are plenty of red lip stains or cherry coloured glosses to help you achieve that festive red look!

To avoid the dreaded lipstick-on-the-teeth look, take your index finger, place it in your mouth and pull it straight out. This technique will help remove any excess lipstick and keep your pearly whites in check!

It's best to first try on a red you plan on buying and looking at it outside of department store lighting. Use this as a guideline to narrow in on reds that will work best for you:
For pale skin tones, try a cool and bright cherry red. (Think Gwen Stefani, Christina Aguilera).
For medium yellow and olive skin tones, give a warm-toned fire-engine red a go.
For dark skin tones, try a berry colour or crimson red.

Q: There seem to be tons of brushes out there to choose from. Do I really need make-up brushes to apply my make-up?
A: No matter what a salesperson may tell you, it really depends. If you have a basic make-up kit or use a minimal amount of make-up (i.e. a routine of powder, lip gloss and mascara), then brushes will just be added fuss and useless to you.

If you do anything more, a good set of brushes is an absolute necessity in my opinion. The product glides on better when you use good-quality brushes. Brushes can last you a long time provided that you take care of them properly - I've had some of mine for ten years! It may seem like a lot of money to spend initially, but it pays off long-term, as you won't have to spend on little applicators, sponges, etc.

Some basic brushes that you need:
1. powder/bronzer brush
2. blush brush (i prefer an angled type)
3. eyeshadow brush - medium, dome-shaped
4. eyeshadow brush - crease, smudging brush
5. eyeshadow brush - slanted (for filling in eyebrows or doing eyeliner)
6. lip brush

See here for more details.

Speaking of American Beauty, what an historic time for our neighbours south of the border with a welcome change in Office that will undoubtedly affect the rest of the world! On January 20th, 2009, the world watched as Barack Obama was sworn in as 44th President of the United States. Our attention was also captivated by the new First Lady, Michelle Obama. Broadcasts everywhere focused on what the style icon, Mrs. Obama, would be wearing.

To complete the look, Mrs. Obama brought on trusted Chicago make-up artist and friend Ingrid Myles-Grimes. Myles-Grimes used a palette of neutral colours for a look that would be "read as very natural and polished." The end result was a classy and gorgeous make-up finish fit for the new First Lady. To get your own polished First Lady look, try these tips:

1. If you haven't done so already, shape your brows.
If you're unsure about doing it on your own, have them first shaped by a professional and then tweeze on your own to maintain the shape. Tamed brows frame the face and provide a more polished aesthetic.

2. Fill in brows with brow powder if necessary.

3. A key to Mrs. Obama's polished look is her glowing skin.
Use foundation to even out skin tone and surface and add concealer where necessary (undereye circles, blemishes).

4. Set face make-up with powder.
Use a multi-dimensional powder like MAC's Mineralize Skinfinish line to get rid of shine without looking dull and flat.

5. Skip the blush, but use a powder about 2 shades darker than your own skin tone as a contouring powder.

6. Apply liquid liner to the top lashes only.

7. Curl the eyelashes and apply two coats of mascara

8. Apply a nude coloured gloss.

NOTE: Yes, the natural and polished look is actually a lot more work than it looks! But when done right, people will notice that you’re glowing...and think that it's effortless! Enjoy!

Photo courtesy of Associated Press