So now that you've decided on your foundation type, what's the best method of application? Here are some tips for when applying your base:

Sponge, brush or fingers?

The debate continues. The answer to this one is based on your own personal preference. I like to use a foundation brush in my client applications, as I find it helps build coverage more evenly. In my daily make-up routine, I quickly reach for a sponge to apply my foundation. When I have more time, my foundation brush becomes my go-to tool.

Foundation can very well be applied with fingers, but I prefer not to. Some artists will say that the foundation against the skin of your fingertips warms up the foundation and makes it better for application. I would rather not have the oils in my hands interact with the foundation and then be applied to my skin. Whichever way you prefer, make sure your hands are immaculate before you apply! Save the fingers for self-application, and stick to a brush or sponge for applications on others.

Less is more

Avoid slathering a bunch on initially. Instead, use about a quarter size drop and distribute evenly to the entire face. Starting off with less will give you more control over where the product will go. It's a lot easier to add more foundation later rather than trying to remove an amount in excess. Build the coverage up in layers as necessary and use a stipple motion to achieve fuller coverage.

Go down baby

Use downward strokes when applying foundation to cover the cheeks. Using this motion ensures that the tiny baby hairs remain flat against the face (and not stick out like peach fuzz!).

Buff and stuff

Use a buffer brush in a circular motion to blend out any excess foundation.

Ready, set, powder!

Set the foundation with a light dusting of powder to keep it longer lasting and combat shine. Powder should only be used once foundation is complete. Once the powder layer is in place, no more foundation should be applied atop of it.

Brush away

Clean your brush after each use to avoid breakouts, especially for cream products on the face.

Time to toss

Change or wash out your sponge every 2-3 uses.

The purpose of foundation is to balance out unevenness in the skin tone. Applied properly, foundation make-up creates a smooth consistency that gives one the appearance of healthy and glowing skin. Now that being said, we all want gorgeous skin, but with the numerous foundation choices out there, how do we know which one to choose?

With so many options and names like liquid, cream, mousse, you almost feel like you could be ordering foundation off a menu! Here is a breakdown of what each type has to offer (in order of lightest coverage to heaviest coverage) along with some recommended products, so you can narrow in on your base of choice:

TINTED MOISTURIZER

• Gives slight colour and moisturizes in one
• Offers the lightest coverage of all foundation types
• Ideal for those with good skin who just want to add light colour to the face (those desiring more coverage should opt for one of the latter formulas, as tinted moisturizer is not buildable)
• Great for summer time, lighter days, heat waves and travelling for those with already healthy skin
  
  Recommended: Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer – adds colour and moisturizes, but also has a built-in SPF which translates to one more step in the morning eliminated!
  

MINERAL MAKE-UP

• Mineral make-up was the latest craze a few years ago, with many new and even already-established make-up companies coming out with targeted mineral make-up products
• Mineral make-up is built around the notion that natural ingredients are better for your skin
• Contains vitamins and minerals (refer to your product for specific ingredients)
• Buildable coverage when used with a kabuki brush
• Better-suited for those with clear skin
  
  Recommended: L'oreal Natural Powdered Mineral Foundation. See more from my post here.

LIQUID

• One of the most popular types of foundation
• Comes in many shapes and forms offering light to medium coverage, oil-free/water-based formulas, etc
• Offers medium, buildable coverage
• Suitable for all skin types - just look for one that's right for you
  i.e. If your skin tends to be on the oily side, look for a water-based formula. If your skin tends to be dry, look for a moisturizing formula
  
  Recommended: MAC Face and Body

MOUSSE

• Similar to liquid foundation, but with air pumped into it creating a lighter, whipped formula
• Offers light to medium buildable coverage
• Great for elderly women, as the light formula is not as prone to setting into lines and creases
  
  Recommended: Lise Watier Mattifying Mousse Foundation with Breathable Cotton

POWDERED FOUNDATION

• Similar to a pressed powder, but offers more coverage with a built-in foundation
  
• Formulated for all skin types
• Great for oily skin, as the powder component will help it to last longer (vs a liquid or creme on its own)
• Use with a wet sponge for those days when you want to achieve a lighter foundation look
  
  Recommended: MAC Studio Fix, Make-up Forever Duo Mat Powder Foundation

PANCAKE/STICK

• Comes in what looks like an oversized lipstick tube and can be directly applied to face from container
• Offers maximum amount of coverage and can also be used as a concealer
• Ideal for normal to dry skin types, but can be too thick for oily skin types
• Blend thoroughly to avoid the dreaded "cakeface" look

Recommended: the beloved and ever-praised Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick

Q: I have eczema on my face, especially above my upper lip, and around my cheeks. When I apply make up, especially powder (I use MAC Studio Fix powder plus foundation) it goes a little flaky. I moisturize my face quite well with Lancome Aqua Fusion and only when I apply make up do these parts of my face flake up. Also, sometimes when I apply eye shadow (I use Lancome eyeshadows) you can tell that they're dry. Do you have any suggestions to what I could do?

A: With eczema, (as you probably already know!) you have to be especially careful in what products you use. Look for key descriptors like "sensitive skin", "non-comedogenic" and "non-scented" when buying. The less the amount of synthetic ingredients that a product has, the less of a chance of a flare-up for eczema-prone skin. As with any type of skin, be sure to moisturize thoroughly before applying your make-up, as a great face always starts with a great base (of hydrated skin!)!

Foundation
For foundation, the MAC Studio Fix powdered foundation is likely too dry of a formula for eczema prone skin. The trick with applying foundation on eczema-prone skin is finding a formula that provides coverage without looking dry/cakey. If you use a product that's too drying in nature, you can end up drawing more attention to any irritation/dry spots from eczema.

Instead of a powdered foundation, try one of the following options:
i). mineral powder
Mineral make-up is derived from natural ingredients, which versus other foundation can greatly help to reduce the chance of a flare-up. A couple of layers leaves the skin feeling lightweight, but mineral formulas are also quite buildable so moderate coverage is easily achieved. Use a soft (and clean!) large-sized kabuki brush to gently apply the make-up on the face. Bonus: The soft bristles of the kabuki massage will feel like a well-deserved mini-massage for the face!

ii). water-based foundation
Water-based foundations are non-comedogenic, making it a better choice for sensitive skin types. You can apply a non-comedogenic water-based foundation on its own using a brush or a sponge. Use a stiple motion to build up coverage and blend evenly over face. If you only need minimal coverage, add an equal-sized drop of the foundation to a pump of your moisturizer. Mix well and you'll instantly have a lightweight tinted moisturizer. Once your base is done, set your foundation with only a light dusting of powder. For eczema prone skin, always avoid over-applying powder as too much powder will only accentuate dry spots.

Products to try: CoverFx foundations - their entire line is developed for the most sensitive of skins, and also includes skin primers, concealers, bronzers and blushes

Redness
Redness from irritation often goes hand in hand with eczema. You can easily create an even canvas by applying a few layers of foundation. But for more prominent redness, target a creamy yellow colour corrector atop the red areas to neutralize them. Follow with your skin tone foundation for an even complexion and set with a light dusting of powder.
Note: You can also use a green corrector to conceal the redness, but I personally prefer the warm finish that applying the yellow corrector gives rather than the typically white-ish cast (I know, 'white-ish' not a word!) that a green concealer leaves behind. Whichever colour corrector you choose, be sure to blend your skin tone matching concealer atop to camouflage the area!

Products to try: Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-Free Mineral Cream Concealer

Eyes
Make sure you are also moisturizing your eyelids as you do the rest of your face at the start of your beauty routine; smooth skin on the eyelids is a prerequisite for blending eyeshadows with ease. For eczema-prone skin, opt for mineral-based and matte eyeshadows rather than heavy shimmer or glitter textures. Particles of shimmer and glitter eyeshadows can irritate sensitive skin, and also draw attention to to any dry spots around the eyes.

Overall when it comes to eczema, use a 'less is more' approach and make sure you always read the packaging. Hope this helps and let me know how it goes! :)

See the original post on Toronto Wedding Professionals, your resource for everything weddings!
There are several different foundation textures out there to help put your best face forward on the Big Day. Whether you're looking for lighter or heavier face coverage, rest assured there is a foundation type out there for you. Yet with so much selection between all the brands and textures, the amount to choose from can be overwhelming! Check out these foundation types to find your perfect match:

Tinted Moisturizer

• gives slight colour and moisturizes in one
• provides minimal coverage of all foundation types
• best-suited for women with clear skin

Mineral Make-up

• light to medium coverage
• use with a kabuki brush to build up product
• best for women with clear skin

Liquid

• very popular foundation texture for bridal make-up
• light to medium buildable coverage
• suitable for all skin types
• a light layer of liquid foundation was used in the pictures here, as we wanted to ensure the bride's gorgeous freckles remained visible!
  

Mousse

• similar to liquid foundation, but with air whipped into it creating a lighter, whipped formula
• light to medium buildable coverage
• great product for mature women, as the light formula is not as prone to setting into fine lines

Powdered Foundation

• leaves a powdery finish, but with more coverage due to the built-in foundation
• light to medium coverage
• great for oily skin, but suitable for all skin types

Stick/Cream Foundation

• offers maximum amount of coverage
• best for normal to dry skin types, but can look too slick on oily skin

To see more:
BEAUTY 101 | Which Foundation Type is Right for Me?

More make-up tips to come!


Rhia Amio, Toronto Make-up Artist
web: http://www.artistrhi.com
blog: http://artistrhi.blogspot.com
email: rhia@artistrhi.com

On your Big Day, you want to put your best face forward and foundation is key to achieving this finished look. Even if you don’t use foundation on a regular basis, wearing some on the Big Day can make all the difference! Foundation works wonders – it brings an even tone to skin and hides minor imperfections. The camera reads foundation well giving the skin a soft and milky texture in photos. Foundation also helps give skin a more vibrant and youthful appearance, but to make it work, we have to make sure it gets applied properly!

How to use it:
Apply primer and give it a few minutes to set. Have a sponge, foundation brush or your clean fingers prepared to evenly distribute colour on the face. Use about a quarter sized drop (or less) to cover the entire face and place a dot on the forehead, left cheek, right cheek and chin. Apply and blend the foundation downward so that the tiny hairs on the face remain flat. (If you apply upwards, the tiny hairs become more visible and you could be at risk for a “peach fuzz” effect). Blend well and into the jawline.

With foundation, I find it’s better to start off with less product and then apply more to build coverage as desired. You still want to be able to see the skin underneath - just smooth and improved! Skip yesteryear’s “cakeface” and don’t overdo foundation, which can make the skin look flat and dull in photos. Remember to set with a light dusting of loose powder to seal in that coveted milky finished look to the skin!

Favourite bridal foundations:
MAC Face & Body
FACE atelier Ultra Foundation

More make-up tips to come!

Check out my blog at: www.artistrhi.com

Rhia Amio, Toronto Make-up Artist
web: www.artistrhi.com
email: rhia@artistrhi.com

Check out the original post on your resource for all things wedding - Toronto Wedding Professionals.

I have a question about matching foundation with my natural skin colour. I test the colour of foundation on my jawline (at least that's what I always thought - correct me if I'm wrong). I have a foundation stick that matches perfectly with my jawline, but when I apply it to my cheeks and other areas of my face, there is a marked colour difference. It's much too dark/orange and doesn't match at all. Is it common to have areas of your face that are different colours? Once I blend in the foundation stick and use a finishing powder, everything looks fine (in my eyes anyways). Should I be switching to a lighter foundation that matches more with the rest of my face, and disregard colour matching with my jawline?

A: Great question! Yes, you are correct - the best place to test foundation is on your jawline so that it matches closely to the jawline and the colour of your neck. It is very commonplace to have different areas of the face with different tones, as pigmentation can vary (and usually the sun hits the top of the forehead moreso than it does the rest of the face!) But that's the whole point of foundation - to give coverage, even out the tone and make our skin look flawless without looking like we have anything on!

You won't need to switch foundations if it blends and matches with the neck properly. If you do go a shade lighter, you may risk looking too light and the foundation application suddenly becomes visible (and that defeats its purpose!). Basically, you want the colour to flow between these two parts of the jawline and neck - otherwise, you'll look like your head is detached from the body! A foolproof way to tell if the colour is right is to evaluate it yourself in the daylight with a mirror. You'll know the colour's right if you don't see it (no lines of demarcation here!). Hope this helps!

TIP: When shopping for a foundation, don't buy and settle on the colour before walking out of the store and evaluating the colour under natural light. (Natural light is the most harsh, so if it looks good in daylight, it will look great under any lighting!) If the salesperson really believes the foundation is the "best", then he/she will have no hesitation and encourage you to look at it under natural light before closing the sale. Test out the colour that best matches your skin, one shade lighter than it, and one shade darker. Don't blend the colour in completely so you can still see it a bit. Once under natural light, choose the shade that disappears into the jawline.

During the Canadian Make-up Show back in November 2008, I scooped up FACE atelier’s set of foundations and they quickly moved to the top of my fave foundations list. I’ve always wanted to try FACE atelier ever since finding out they were the sponsor for Madonna’s Confessions tours. But ever the aspiring practical consumer and only being able to view their products online, I was ecstatic to finally get the chance to try before I buy! I wasn't disappointed. The silicone-based formula glides on like a dream and most importantly, makes skin look amazing – smooth and youthful! A little goes a long way with this product. You only need a tiny amount to cover the entire face, and heavier coverage is easy to build without being cakey.

I had one of those moments when I looked in the mirror the other day (well, month) and thought I can’t do my make-up the same way I was doing it in my teens (bye bye powdered foundation). Thankfully, with its smooth consistency (oh the joys of silicone!), FACE atelier Ultra Foundation Pro has taken years off of my skin. In terms of staying power, other than the usual lunchtime oil blot and powder touch-up, coverage stayed fresh-looking throughout the day.

I bought the set of foundations that includes the make-up artist friendly foundations, Zero+ (a dark toned foundation) and Zero- (a white foundation). Having the two of these on hand is perfect for any make-up artist, as it makes any colour combination possible. Zero+ and Zero- are also great for the everyday woman, as skin tone tends to vary between seasons (and often skin tones even vary on different areas of the face i.e. darker forehead)! Just add a drop of either Zero+ or Zero- to darken/lighten as desired, and voila – an instant customized shade that’s a perfect match! Katie at right has gorgeous fair skin, and the lightest foundation will still a tad too dark. I mixed in Zero- to lighten it and match her skin tone exactly.

If you haven’t heard of FACE atelier, it was founded by Calgary's own Debbie Bondar, who started the line after her own quest to find a great foundation left her something to be desired. The foundation that eventually developed is an industry favourite amongst make-up artists, including celebrity make-up artist Billy B. I never thought I would be one for silicone, but luckily using this product doesn’t involve surgery! Thanks to Debbie Bondar and FACE atelier, my own quest for the perfect everyday foundation has thankfully come to a stand still (well, for the time being)!

ARTIST TIP: When was the last time you evaluated your make-up routine? Don’t get stuck in a rut. Make-up is the perfect inexpensive way to update your look and try something new! Whether it be a foundation or a lipstick, it’s a new year - maybe it’s time you try something a little something different?

Check out the original post on Make-up Junkie! I was excited to test out the BECCA Stick Foundation (approximately $40 USD), as I’m always looking for the next kit essential to simplify my beauty routine. A foundation stick is a perfect go-to product, particularly when you’re hurried for time. It makes foundation application easy - no need for brushes and sponges - just apply, blend and go! The sample of stick foundation I had was a couple of shades too dark for my own skin tone, so instead I improvised and used it as a contouring stick. I loved how the BECCA foundation stick glided on creamy, but blended into the skin without feeling "thick".

Aside from applying well, the BECCA stick foundation is well-designed for skin care and protection. It offers a 30 SPF protecting against 97% of UVA and UVB rays. BECCA stick foundations are also infused with anti-oxidant vitamins A, D, and E that help promote collagen renewal and keep the skin youthful! Gotta love it.

BECCA Cosmetics was founded by Rebecca Morrice Wilson, a former make-up artist who decided to create her own beauty line after her search for the perfect foundation left something to be desired. The line now offers 34 foundation colours in a wide range of skin tones and in delectable names like Latte, Praline, Truffle and Butterscotch. Wilson's aim was to "make it possible for ALL women to experience the pleasure of a flawless and radiant complexion." The BECCA cosmetics line achieves beyond that with products that are both practical and delightful! Enjoy!

For us Canadian Make-up Junkies, BECCA is currently only available online at www.beccacosmetics.com.

Marcelle's New Age Anti-Wrinkle Make-up Foundation is targeted towards the 35+ crowd, but after passing a recent bday and entering that next age bracket, I figured....it doesn't hurt to be pro-active, right? :)I've shied away from drugstore brand foundations in the past while, as I'm a firm believer on it being ok to splurge on quality foundation and concealer products (and of course, I've needed the more reliable stuff for my kit!). Certainly, drugstore make-up brands have come a long way and today you can get quality products at affordable prices. Marcelle is one of those lines that balances quality and value really well, and I've been pleasantly surprised by their latest foundation.

Marcelle's Anti-Wrinkle Make-up Foundation contains Dermaxyl (an anti-aging agent known to diminish the look of fine lines and wrinkles) and other key ingredients that help to improve the skin's radiance. It's definitely an easy-to-use foundation, as it blends easily and absorbs quickly into the skin. I'd recommend it more for women with healthy skin that just needs that quick pick-me-up, as it provides light to moderate coverage. Women that usually need more coverage (for blemishes, uneven skin tones) will want to try something other than this formula.

I've been using the foundation for about a month, but (unfortunately!) can't see a visibile difference in it minimizing my own fine lines ('of experience'). I do like how the lightweight formula doesn't cake into my fine lines and crepey undereye area - anything that doesn't make these areas more noticeable is an immediate winner in my book!

The one shortage of this foundation is the limited range of six skin tones. I do hope they expand the choice of skin tones, as Marcelle products seem to work great with all skin types (including sensitive skin).

Overall, a good foundation, but the Anti-Wrinkle part? Jury's still out on that one (and hopefully the prominent wrinkles will stay out with it!)....

The other night I was in my local Shoppers to get my make-up fix and "restock" my kit during the usual bonus points sale. I overheard the usual salesperson fodder, as the fresh-faced sales associate tried to upsell her customer on "the best" foundation and a foundation brush to accompany it. The customer was initially asking for wedge sponges, but as the store was sold out, the sales associate recommended brushes as they had "less bacteria". Now to disspell this myth based on the hygiene argument, let's remember that it depends on how you take care of your tools that will determine how hygienic they truly are. A foundation brush, if not cleaned with a brush shampoo and then sprayed with 99.9% alcohol will be just as prone to bacteria build-up and transfer as a sponge that is not cleaned appropriately. The brush should be cleaned after each use to prevent bacteria growth. I love foundation brushes for the application they provide, but if you're more of a make-up minimalist, the foundation brush and the cleansing of it will likely seem like extraneous steps. A sponge, when used and taken care of properly, can be just as hygienic as a brush. Either replace your foundation sponge after several uses or wash out your foundation sponge regularly to give it more longevity. Keep these tips in mind, as regular and proper maintenance of your make-up tools will make sure you get the most bang for your buck! (and who doesn't love that?)

Q: Rhia, what's in your make-up kit?
A: I frequently get asked what I use on myself on a day-to-day basis, and the answer is that it really varies. It’s great to be a make-up artist, and to have so many make-up products at your disposal all the time! It gives you the freedom to change up your routine from day-to-day and the excuse of purchasing more products and rationalizing it by saying “I’m just buying it to add to the kit!” (Yeah right. My boyfriend has heard that one-liner so much that he no longer rolls his eyes!)

I wanted to write a bit about the products that I use on a frequent basis (why I use them and what they’re good for), but I realized that there are many to mention! I decided the best way to go about it to provide that type of detail was to post in a series of installments rather than one excessively long post.

Welcome to the first installment of the “What’s in My Make-up Kit Series”. You’ll see that most of the products may be familiar as I use them in my client applications and I’ve likely referred to them in past posts or product reviews.

In this installment, you will find my own Make-up Kit Essentials for the Face in the order that I use them (…along with further evidential proof that it takes efforts equal to that of a whole village to take me from just-woke-up to ready-to-face-the-world in the morning!):

Part I | What’s in My Make-up Kit: Face

MAKE-UP REMOVER
Inglot Make-up Remover

I swear by this stuff and am running low on my supply! The formula is heavy duty enough that it penetrates and breaks down my waterproof liquid liner and mascara without struggle and excessive rubbing, but the formula is not overly greasy and leaves the skin with a smooth baby's bum feeling.

CLEANSER
Biore Ice Cleanser for Blemish Prone Skin and Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash

I like to change up my cleansers from day to day. Otherwise, I feel like my skin gets too used to them and it has no effect. I usually go back and forth between the two bottles, alternating between day and night.

LOTION
Neutrogena Moisture for Combination Skin

I always follow cleansing with some moisturizing. I am a longtime devotee to Neutrogena Moisture. Neutrogena Moisture also has formulas for sensitive skin and another with an SPF so you can save time in the morning by having a moisturizer and sunscreen in one!

PRIMER
Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer

You'll see this product is highly celebrated throughout the make-up industry and is at the top of many "best of beauty" lists. I turned to this Smashbox primer after I ran out of the Inglot Primer that I had (can only get that in Montreal now!) The Smashbox primer was a bit more heavy and greasy than I was used to, but it did help my foundation to glide on smoothly and help it to last longer throughout the day. I recently purchased the Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer Light that is a reinterpretation of the original but better-suited for more oily and sensitive skin types.

FOUNDATION
MAC Studio Fix in C4 + sponge

I have sworn by MAC ever since high school mainly because of the range of foundation colour selection (and the affordable price range). Studio Fix is a foundation and powder two-in-one that leaves your skin with an even matte finish. It's quick and easy - with a couple of swipes of the sponge, you're all done! Depending on the day and where I’m going, sometimes I like to use liquid foundation. I usually opt for MAC Face and Body in C4 whenever I'm going for more of a finished look.

CONCEALER
MAC Select Cover-up in Peach (limited availability)
MAC Full Coverage in NC 30, NC 35
MAC Concealer Brush 194

I layer the peach concealer first using the concealer brush to brighten the dark circles under my eyes (seriously dark even with bright flash like in this pic at the end of the wedding slideshow). MAC Full Coverage is actually equivalent to their Studio Finish concealer (paste-like consistency), and like the name implies, is very heavy duty. Since I need more coverage but don't want it to be cakey, I mix the two colours NC 30 and NC 35 with some of my moisturizer to get the perfect colour, but still the opaque consistency required to cover up my bags!

POWDER
MAC Mineralize SkinFinish in Medium Plus with MAC Large Powder Brush 150

I use the large powder brush to dust my face with powder and set my foundation to help it last longer throughout the day. I lightly pat Vichy Dermablend Loose Translucent Powder under the eyes using either a sponge of a clean small eyeshadow brush. I don't blend this in until later when my eyeshadow is done. See tip here.

BRONZER
MAC Mineralize Skin Finish in Medium Dark or Deep Dark
Tarte Powder Bronzer
MAC Large Powder Brush 134

Bronzer helps bring my face to life! I would not leave the house without it. I use it with the large brush stroking along the sides of the face, just slightly below the cheekbone, and underneath the contours of the face for a trimmed, sun-kissed look!

BLUSH
NARS Orgasm
MAC Blush Brush 129

Another highly celebrated product throughout the world of beauty. It gives a great peachy pink instant glow to the cheeks that helps make you look healthy and awake. Just smile and blend away on the apples of the cheeks!

Check back to see all installments of the What’s in my Make-up kit Series for:
Part I | What’s in My Make-up Kit: Face
Part II | What’s in my Make-up Kit: Eyes
Part III | What’s in My Make-up Kit: Lips
Part IV | Auto-Pilot

What do you use? Feel free to comment and tell me what make-up products work (or don’t work) for you!

Q: I am very low maintenance and have good skin, but would like the even tone that face makeup provides (I am fair and have occasional redness). Does this really require liquid makeup and foundation? Can I just find a powder to brush on all-over to give me one nice face-colour?
Yes, you could very well use a powder to camouflage any redness in the face, as long as the redness is only slight/occasional. Try a loose powdered foundation with a kabuki brush to build coverage. The kabuki brush is a stub-sized face powder brush that has the most concentration of brush fibres. The greater amount of brush fibres helps to gather up the most amount of powder product for direct transfer to the skin. Use a circular motion to build up the coverage on the face. The kabuki brush is also great for buffing off and blending any excess face make-up - just use it clean against the skin and brush away.

Try L'oreal Bare Natural Powdered Mineral Foundation with a kabuki brush like MAC's 182 Buffer Brush.

For more coverage:
For any prominent redness, a creme-to-powder foundation is better to build coverage and to balance out the skin tone. Make-up Forever's Duo Mat Powder Foundation or MAC StudioFix (I swear by C4 when I'm strapped for time!) are tried and tested foundation-powder options that give light to medium coverage. To build up coverage, use a stipple motion atop the areas of concern and be sure to blend. The creme-to-powder foundation formula is a great option for low-maintenance women who still prefer that finished face look, but don't like the fuss of too many products in the morning!

top photo courtesy of L'oreal
bottom photo courtesy of MUFE

For brides-to-be in the GTA and Southern Ontario area, Toronto Wedding Professionals is an excellent resource for all things wedding. Check the site out and you'll also see some of my bridal make-up tips! As originally posted in TWP:

So now that we have a handle on how to get our best skin yet, it’s time for a pro make-up artist tip to help maximize your foundation application on the Big Day! Make-up artists everywhere swear by primers when doing bridal make-up applications. What is a primer you ask? Well, similar to priming your walls for paint application, make-up primer sets the skin for foundation application. The main ingredient in make-up primer is silicone; silicone sits atop the skin and smoothes out the surface to help achieve a flawless foundation finish. It also acts as a mattifier helping the make-up last longer and reducing excess shine throughout the day – which is particularly useful for all the cameras that will be flashing your way!

How to use it:
Once your daily moisturizer has had time to absorb into your skin (at least 10 minutes, preferably 30 minutes), apply a pea-sized drop of primer and distribute it all over face. I like to concentrate more of the primer application in the T-zone area, as this area of the face is more prone to shine for normal skin types. Give the primer 5 minutes to set and then run your fingers over your skin to feel the noticeably smoother consistency. Next, apply your foundation and blend well. Set the application with a light dusting of loose powder for flawless skin that’s Big Day ready!

Recommended primers

for normal to dry skin types:
Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer (approx. $40)
for oily skin:
Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer Light (approx. $40)

To read more on the wonders of foundation primer, see post on Artist Tip: Primer is Your Friend.

More make-up tips to come!
Check out my blog at: www.artistrhi.com
Rhia Amio, Toronto Make-up Artist
web: www.artistrhi.com
email: rhia@artistrhi.com

Q: What is the best primer?

A: In terms of what the "best" primer is, I can only speak from experience with primers that I have used on myself and/or clients. Usually, I test run everything on myself (I have fairly normal skin on good days) as a measuring stick because:

1) I’m a beauty junkie so I have to!
2) so I know how (well, if) the product works and
3) so I can describe it to clients.

I like to do my research, read up on products through magazines, make-up artist boards and online reviews and also ask other fellow make-up artists and beauty junkie pals before I set out to buy something. I have tried a few primers in my lifetime, but usually once I find something that I like, I’m pretty faithful to it until it gets discontinued or until it doesn't work the same.

The two primers currently in rotation for my own use and for clients are:

1. Cargo blu_ray™ High Definition Mattifier (approx. $28 CAD)
This mattifier became my trusted everyday primer when my previous go-to, Smashbox's Photo Finish Foundation Primer, just wasn't doing it for me anymore. Although Smashbox's primer had worked well before, I was beginning to find that my skin would get shiny nearly right after I had just finished my morning application.

Cargo's mattifier comes from the line's range of products specialized for use under the scrutiny of HD and blu-ray lenses. The result is a line of products that gives flawless and natural results, so even when enlarged to full resolution, the skin (and not the make-up) appears only better.

When applied initially, Cargo's mattifier works well as a primer. It smoothes out the skin, minimizes pores and fine lines, and tones down excess shine. You can also use it instead of powder - atop bare skin or atop your foundation. Most importantly, it keeps the T-zone in check until the usual midday touch-up. This primer has become a personal favourite, and a favourite of my bridal clients who need their make-up to go the absolute distance.

2. Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentrè / 24-Hour Miracle Cream (approx $30 CAD)
Embryolisse is a fashion industry favourite with fans that include models to make-up artists! This multi-purpose cream quadruples as a moisturizer, primer, make-up remover and shaving cream! (Yes, even your boyfriend can use it. Multi-purpose indeed!)

The primer and moisturizer combo is perfect for when I'm in a rush, and it's a definite must-have when I'm travelling. It hydrates the skin, leaving it with a soft and silky smooth feel while not being greasy. A touch-up isn't needed til the usual midday expiration and it easily removes my make-up come nightfall - all this from one nifty bottle! Definitely recommend this one for its quality and practicality.

My take on other primers that I've tried:

Smashbox's Photo Finish Foundation Primer (approx. $40 CAD)
You only need a tiny amount of this primer, which in past years has been a favourite of beauty fanatics (including the big guys like Allure and Sephora). I personally find the formula too greasy and that my foundation looks the same later in the day when I don't apply it. At about $40CAD for the bottle, I'd definitely pass on this one.

Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer Light (approx. $40 CAD)
In an attempt to give Smashbox's primer a chance to redeem itself (there must be all the buzz about it for some reason, right?), I decided to give the Light version of the formulation a try. The results were definitely less greasy than the original formula, but no great difference in lasting power of my foundation throughout the day. Another pass on this one!

MAC Prep + Prime Skin
This MAC primer contains silicones that sit atop the skin and help to smooth out the surface and minimize pores. Also works well for toning down oily skin, but doesn't really help with redness control as the product description says (you need some cover-up make-up for that one!). Overall, a decent primer, but at that price, I'd still opt for something that wows me :)

MAC Matte
MAC Matte's a staple in my kit. The clear gel formula works great to instantly tone down excess oil, such as in the T-zone and cheeks. It can be used before or even after foundation, in place of powder. Great to use on-set too - when in studio under hot camera lights, the skin (especially the T-zone) can tend to get shiny. To combat this, use a sponge to lightly pat MAC's Matte on the shiny area and let it set...alleviating the need to constantly reapply powder for touch-ups and risk looking cakey!

Conclusion (of sorts...):
The best primer can really vary with skin type. If you have normal skin, you'll be compatible with nearly all of the primers mentioned. If your skin tends to be on the oily side, I would stick to the primers with more of a mattifying formula, such as Cargo's blu_ray™ HD Mattifier or MAC's Matte. If your skin is on the dry side, Smashbox's Photo Finish or Embryolisse would be good options.

Whatever you choose, most places offer samples so don't be afraid to ask. Remember, if a product's worth buying, it's worth trying so samples should be readily available!

Hope that helps!

If you have a make-up related question you'd like to ask, shoot an email to me at rhia[at]artistrhi[dot]com. I look forward to hearing from you!

If you find that you tend to wipe away your concealer when applying foundation, try these tips:

1. Use a stipple motion when applying concealer and foundation. Use this light patting motion to build up coverage instead of using a wiping motion that tends to wipe away all that you have already applied. Blend, blend, blend.

2. You can apply concealer before or after foundation – just stick to using this stipple method to prevent undoing what you’ve already put on. Some prefer to put on concealer first and then blend the colour of the concealer when applying their foundation. Others prefer to put on foundation first, as they won't have to use as much concealer when applying it after.
Note: If the concealer you use is lighter than your skin tone (i.e. to camouflage dark circles under the eye), then I would recommend applying it before foundation.

3. Use your ring finger (as it has the least amount of intensity and pressure) to blend the delicate area under the eye. The warmth of your finger will help to blend the cream make-up of the undereye area in with the rest of the skin.

4. Set the look with some powder, which seals the look and provides extra staying power. Use a dense brush to lightly dust loose powder all over your face or lightly pat it on with a make-up sponge.

Remember around the eyes especially, you want to use just the right amount of concealer. Otherwise, it will appear 'cakey' (and fakey!) and draw the wrong kind of attention to your eyes!

Q: What do you recommend for cover-up? I'm looking for something light and not super expensive.

A: Perfect question. Spring is the time to lighten up when it comes to make-up, and considering the economic forecast of late, finding products that are affordable are definitely in season as well! (The recessionista chic movement cometh)!

If you have healthy skin and are just looking to add a light foundation to your make-up routine, opt for a tinted moisturizer. A tinted moisturizer will add a hint of colour and help to balance out the skin, creating a more even tone. It provides the most minimal coverage of all foundation types, while still producing a polished glow. Set the application with a light veil of powder. The powder will help to keep the product in place and tone down any excess shine.

Remember to still camouflage those “problem” areas (i.e. undereye circles and blemishes) with your trusted concealer; Even though ‘tis the season to go lighter with face make-up, it doesn’t mean you want to sacrifice that coverage where it counts!!

Recommended products:
Cover Girl Smoothers Tinted Moisture (best value)
Stila Tinted Moisturizer
Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer

ARTIST TIP: Use that liquid foundation you’ve been sporting for winter and add your face moistuizer to create your own homemade tinted moisturizer. Use approximately one part foundation and one moisturizer for the mixture (or add more or less moisturizer depending on how thin you want the consistency of the formula to be). Mix well and voila - your very own homemade tinted moisturizer…instantly! (and in true recessionista form!)

So maybe you've decided you should do your own make-up on your wedding day, or perhaps the make-up artist you wanted is fully booked? Try these pro make-up tricks to help put your best face forward for the professional photography ahead of you and to help the make-up stay put into the wee hours of the morning:

CHOOSE YOUR LOOK

Look through magazines and books for examples of naturally enhanced make-up so you have a guide to work with when doing your own. Avoid a look that's too trendy and stick to a look that's more traditional (think about what you'll think in 25 years when you look back on your wedding photos).
TIP: Do at least a couple of trial runs on yourself with your desired look to get a feel for the time it will take and to see how the final product turns out (just in case you need to re-evaluate the look and go back to the drawing board!)

FACE MAKE-UP

Use a foundation primer after cleansing and moisturizing, but before applying foundation.
TIP: Choose a primer that contains mattifying ingredients to help absorb and reduce excess shine on the face throughout the day.

Use a light to medium coverage foundation. You want your skin to be glowing and not hidden behind layers of caked-on make-up for the close-up photos you'll be taking. Blend!

Use concealer to get rid of any unevenness in the skin (i.e. undereye circles, blemishes). Be sure to blend.

Set the concealer and foundation with a dusting of translucent powder. Powder will help to keep the concealer and foundation stay put and reduce shine on the face.
TIP: Pack some powder for the rest of the day to touch up the T-zone and any other oil-prone areas of the face. You will be thankful you did it, especially with all the flash photography you'll face. You're definitely the star for the big day, but we have to make sure you're not shining in the wrong places!

Dust some matte blush (save the shimmer for nightclubs) on the cheeks, to give yourself a glow and ensure you don't fade when the bright flash of the camera starts going.

EYE MAKE-UP

Apply a layer of a cream eyeshadow (try MAC’s Paint Pots in a neutral colour). The layer of cream eyeshadow will act as a base for the powder eyeshadow to adhere to and help it last (and remain crease-free!) throughout the day.

Use gel liner or liquid liner to keep your eyeliner lasting all day. Keep the line thin and tight with the lashline (see the technique). The line can get slightly thicker towards the outer edge of the eye (where the lashes are prominent), and can be extended just slightly to product a wide-eyed look.

Apply neutral shades of eyeshadow to enhance the structure around the eye. Use a matte brown for the crease, and a highlighter shade on the browbone (slight shimmer is ok, but avoid frosty eyeshadows as it will be too much for your photos.)

Curl your eyelashes and add some false eyelashes for a professional make-up look. False eyelashes have an eye-opening and enlarging effect on the eye that even the most perfect application of eyeliner can't produce. You should definitely practice these a couple of times to get a handle for the application or ask a friend to help you apply tip.
TIP: Cut a false eyelash set into halves. Use the half-set on the outer edge of the top lashes for a wide-eyed look. Make sure you place the longer false lashes towards the outer edge of the eye (where your own longer lashes are). Using the half-set will be alot easier to apply on yourself than a full set of falsies.

Curl your eyelashes once more to align the false set with your own and set the look with two coats of a waterproof (important) mascara.

LIPS

Choose a lipstick that is 2 shades darker than your inner bottom lip for a naturally enhanced look. Use it with a matching lipliner to prevent any feathering of your lipstick and lipgloss. Once the lipliner has been applied, take a lip brush, smile and blend the the lipliner towards the centre of your lips so that it can act as a base for the lipstick to cling to.

Apply the lipstick with the lip brush for more control. Do one layer of lipstick and blot with a one-ply tissue so the colour seaps into the lips. Then, using the lip brush once more, top off with another coat of lipstick for long-lasting lip colour. Finish with gloss if desired.
TIP: Rather than applying gloss all over the lips, apply a light coat and concentrate the gloss on the middle bottom lip to make the lips look full. Your groom will thank you for not overdoing the lipstick and gloss - especially when it comes to the "you may kiss the bride" kiss!

SHOPPING TIPS

Make an appointment with a make-up counter to get some free products. Usually, a make-up application is 'free' upon the purchase of a certain amount of products (approximately $50). If you need to update your make-up bag, this is a great way to gain some full-sized products for touch-ups on the day of...and you can also gain helpful tips from the artist you work with. Make sure you hold onto a mirror as you're getting your make-up applied so you have an idea of how to replicate the look.

You can also ask for sample sizes in the colours you need. These sample sizes given are usually perfect for touch-ups and small enough for putting in your purse for later rather than lugging the full-sized products.

This is your big day and no part of it (especially the make-up) should be stressful so smile and have fun. For as much as make-up can fake glowing skin, it can’t replace the natural glow of a happy bride’s smile! Enjoy!

Ever looked at coloured concealer (or foundation) and thought what crazy new make-up gimmick are they trying to get me to buy into now?

The idea behind colour concealer and foundation derives from the colour wheel. Colours that sit opposite of each other on the colour wheel are used to contrast one another. For instance, green and red are opposites on the colour wheel so green concealer is used to neutralize and conceal blemishes, rosacea and other areas of redness in the skin. Dig it?

Here's a brief overview of what coloured concealers and foundations can offer you:

• GREEN
  - tone down redness
  - perfect for blemishes, skin that is prone to redness (i.e. rosacea)

• PEACH
  - brighten dark spots (I love to use it under the eyes), lighten areas of the skin damaged by the sun
  - use for medium yellow to olive skintones

• MAUVE
  - brighten and balance sallow medium yellow skintones
  
  
• YELLOW
  - brighten dark spots/undereye circles
  - use for light warm to medium yellow skintones
  

• WHITE (cool)
  - use it to brighten dark spots or to lighten foundation colours
  
  
• CREAM (WHITE - warm)
  - use it to brighten dark spots or to lighten warm, yellow-based foundation.
  

What kind of formula do I look for?
For blemishes and smaller areas, choose a creamy paste-like, stickier formula. For larger areas, use a lighter liquid texture, as creams will be too obvious when covering these larger areas.

Recommended products:
Lise Watier's concealer portfolio (pictured above) comes in both a palette for light and dark skin tones. The palette contains all the colour correctors needed right at your finger tips, which is particularly ideal for make-up artists who don't always have time to fumble around searching their kits for different products!

For under the eyes, I like to layer MAC's Select Cover in Peach to brighten the under eye area. I always make sure I have at least two of these in my kit, as I tend to go through them pretty quickly.

When all else fails...
If all else fails, it is better to just skip the colour concealer and foundation altogether and instead use your skin-tone coloured one. After all, you don't want to look like the Incredible Hulk when all is said and done with the colour correctors!

For more make-up staying power, especially when it comes to wearing your foundation, try using a make-up primer post morning routine of cleansing and moisturizing your face and pre make-up application.

Why use a primer?

Primer works to smooth out the surface of the skin, by filling in little pores and ridges, helping to give the skin a more uniform surface. Primers are mainly comprised of silicones, so it sits atop the skin, as a smoothing layer between the skin and foundation. The better primers also act as 'mattifiers' and help to absorb oil (and thus reduce make-up transfer) throughout the day. Primers are an added step and the better ones are pricey, but you only need to use a pea-sized amount in the areas that are more shine-prone. It will help to promote the daily longevity of your foundation and concealer without the need for touch-ups throughout the day, so you'll be using less and saving in that way!

How to use:
1. Squeeze a pea-sized drop onto finger and distribute evenly on face.
2. Give it a minute to dry.
3. Proceed with foundation application.

Who it works best for:
Foundation wearers and oil-prone skin types

Recommended products:
Inglot Under Make-Up Base ($27)
Smashbox Primer ($37+)

I’ve been using Studio Scuplt Foundation for over a month now since its release and the verdict? I’m loving it! The cream foundation glides on smooth and blends well without much effort. Coverage is easily buildable and produces a finish that’s medium to heavy with the more layers you apply. You literally only need a pea-sized drop from the tube to give the face moderate coverage, which is a nice quick fix when putting on my “out-in-public” face on in the morning! When layered on, I prefer the look Studio Scuplt provides over the other staple heavier coverage MAC foundations in my kit (Full Coverage and Studio Fix). With Studio Sculpt, the buildable coverage doesn’t give the face the undesirable flat, matte look – just flawless skin! For those light days when you prefer a sheer and dewy look to your foundation, the formula can easily be thinned out by mixing in a tiny bit of moisturizer.

As for Studio Sculpt Concealer, I found the formula to be too tacky for my liking. The product lasted well on blemishes, but was difficult to work with when applying to the undereye area (my main area of concern when evaluating to see if a concealer "works" for me). Studio Sculpt likely just wasn’t the best concealer for me, as the skin under my eyes has changed from my teens and early 20s (with age, sun exposure, lack of sleep, etc., etc.). The sticky paste formula would blend best on someone with a smooth undereye surface, but I definitely need more “slip” from my concealer. Nonetheless, Studio Sculpt is a great concealer product hiding imperfections well - I just need a little more work!

ARTIST TIP: If your undereyes are similar to mine and are more crepey (ugh, that sounds terrible. Let’s say “have more character”), stick to a concealer formula that has more “slip” (i.e. liquid-based) to help prevent the product from creasing into fine lines around the eye. Yes, character indeed.

Related posts:
BEAUTY 101 | All About Foundation
BEAUTY 101 | The Basics of Concealer