Don't be intimidated - modern eyelash curlers no longer resemble medieval torture devices! Eyelash curlers can make a world of difference, especially for those who desire a wide-eyed look. For my lashes (like most Asian eyelashes) that tend to grow straight downward, a eyelash curler is an absolute kit essential! I like to use the one displayed below as the flatter edge allows me to get right at the root of the lashes. Check out these helpful hints for maximizing your own lash potential:

1. Use the curler in a pumping motion starting at the base/root of the top set of lashes.

2. Continue this pumping motion as you bring the eyelash curler away from you in an upward motion (try to think of it as curling the lashwards upwards to open them up).

Curling the lashes this way helps to give the curl a more natural look. If you tend to curl the lashes just at the base, the lashes tend to shoot straight up and appear less natural (when viewed from your side profile).

3. Last but not least, finish with mascara. After curling the eyelashes remember to set the curl with your fave mascara. Hold the mascara wand at the base of the lashes, and wiggle the wand upward and away from you. One to two coats are usually enough.

4. You can use either clear mascara to define the bottom set of lashes, or after you have applied mascara to the top lashes, use the excess on the brush to lightly glide over the bottom set. Avoid using too much mascara on the bottom lashes, as they are naturally thinnerthan the top set. If you go too thick on the bottom set, you can risk looking like a clown or getting a 'spider-like' effect.

Posted by Rhia Amio, Make-up Artist www.artistrhi.com | 2:49 PM | , , , , , , , , | 0 comments »

Q: How do I minimize my under-eye circles with make-up? My concealer just doesn't seem to cover it.
The usual recommendation for concealing dark circles around the eyes is to look for a concealer that is (no more than) two shades lighter than your skin tone colour. For light underye circles, this trick should be enough. For more prominent circles, I prefer to use a shade of orange or peach colour concealer, depending on the client's skin tone.

Use a light application and build layers. Concealer that is too cakey around the eyes will look to obvious and produce a reverse raccoon eye effect. After the peach concealer is applied, follow with your skin-tone coloured concealer or foundation to blend the area with the rest of your skin tone. Set the area with a light dusting of powder and voila!

Recommended products
MAC Select Cover-up in Peach

Posted by Rhia Amio, Make-up Artist www.artistrhi.com | 10:56 AM | , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments »

Where to find: your local drugstore
Price: $12 regular price ($9 on sale)
Review: love it

I have been a devoted fan of liquid eyeliner ever since my friend, Chantele, first introduced it to me in high school. From day one, I have loved L'oreal's Lineur Intense for its precise application ability and for its staying power. The fine brush tip gives you total control over the lines you draw: either use a light hand for a thin line, or a heavier hand for a thicker line. The waterproof and sweatproof formula lasts throughout the day and is perfect for the wedding applications I do. L'oreal Lineur Intense is a classic and a definite kit necessity!

For tips on how to apply, see here.

Posted by Rhia Amio, Make-up Artist www.artistrhi.com | 2:06 PM | , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments »

The choice in make-up brushes out there is endless. If I had to narrow it down to only a few (I could only trim it down to six), here would be my 'essential' brush kit:

1. Powder Brush / Bronzer Brush
A large, natural-hair fibre brush that is used for applying powder or distributing bronzer all over the face. With loose powder, press the brush against the product and then tap twice to get rid of excess powder. Follow the natural contours of the face and blend using the brush.


2. Blush Brush
A medium-sized natural fibre brush that is used for distributing colour to the cheek area. Blush brushes can come in different cuts, including a tapered or a full edge. I prefer a rounded fuller edge for the one I regularly use.

Two ways to use the blush brush:

  • Start at the ears and concentrate colour from the hollow of the cheek in towards the nose (don't go further than two fingers in).
  • Smile and highlight the apples of the cheeks.
3. Crease Eyeshadow Brush
A pointed-tip eyeshadow brush made of natural fibres that allows for precise application of eyeshadow into the crease of the eye. I find these especially useful on Asian eyes for creating definition and dimension around the eye.


4. Tapered Blending Eyeshadow Brush
A second eyeshadow brush made of natural bristles that is great for blending eyeshadow colours, applying base colours, and applying a highlighting eyeshadow shade atop the browbone.



5. Angled Eyebrow Brush
A slanted natural bristled brush that is useful for sketching in eyebrows with eyebrow powder. If used wet, an angled brush can also be used as an eyeliner brush when mixed with eyeshadow. Be sure to clean the brush between each application, as the eyes are very sensitive.

6. Lip Brush
A synthetic fibre brush that is used to apply lipsticks or lip glosses. Using a synthetic bristled brush allows for maximal product transfer from the product to your lips; a natural bristled brush would absorb the product rather than distribute it.

Posted by Rhia Amio, Make-up Artist www.artistrhi.com | 1:11 PM | , , , , , , , , | 0 comments »

Q: What type of eyeliner is best for me? i.e. liquid or pencil? cake or gel? Help!
A: What's best for you is really based on personal preference - this varies with how much time you have in your day for make-up and your comfort/skill level with different eyeliner types (i.e. pencil versus the more difficult liquid type). Never fret though - make-up is all about options, and both eye-lining beginners and experts have ample choice. Here are some benefits and disadvantages of different types of eyeliners to help you decide what suits you best:

I. PENCIL
Eyeliner pencils come in all different types and colours by most of the major cosmetic brands. For eyeliner pencils, I usually prefer to pick up one from a prestige line, as I need something that lasts as long as possible. One of the better ones I've come across is from Make-up Forever's Aqua Eyes waterproof line - it's among one of my fave products and a kit essential. (You can view my blurb on it here).

Benefits
  • is the easiest eyeliner to work with - recommended for beginners and veterans
  • range of eye make-up looks from subtle and natural to dramatic and smoky
  • everyday wear (work, school) and convenience (easy to touch up!)
Disadvantages
  • can fade and smudge (look for a waterproof type for maximal lasting throughout the day)
  • does not last as long as other eyeliner types
Ok, now manual sharpen type or automatic roll-up type of pencil eyeliner??
Again, personal preference. I prefer the manual sharpen type as it gives you more option and control over how the eyeliner is applied. The automatic roll-up style although easy to use is more difficult to use when you're attempting to draw precise and straight-edge lines. With the manual sharpen pencil type, if you prefer to go thick and smudgy for a smoky eye, you can always dull the pencil point to achieve the desired look.

Tip for the roll-up pencils: Be careful not to roll up too much of the eyeliner; exposing too much of the stick will make it more prone to breaking off and going to waste!

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II. LIQUID

Liquid is always my first choice for eyeliner applications and is the best choice for women who want their eyeliner to last all day. Liquid is also great for women who prefer stronger eyeliner definition. Liquid goes on like a marker: the line can appear too harsh for those who prefer a more natural look, but can appear 'defined' to someone who wants a stronger eye look.
Benefits
  • lasts all day with minimal touch-up required
  • great for dramatic eye looks (best for the cat-eye look!)
  • great for women who prefer no-fuss make-up
Disadvantages
  • not recommended for beginners
  • can get very messy when it goes wrong
  • does not come off easily (eye make-up remover required, but you should always use that to remove eye make-up anyway!)
Ok now, felt-tipped liquid liner or brush-tipped liquid liner?
Felt tip liquid eyeliner usually looks like a marker. You shake the container to replenish the liquid liner at the tip. Brush tip liquid eyeliner usually looks like a fine-tip brush that can be twisted and removed from the container of liquid liner. Using a thin-tipped brush allows you to have more precision and helps in achieving a thin, tightly-lined eye.
Note: Brush tip eyeliner is not recommended for the eyeliner novice.

Tip for liquid liner:
Starting off with liquid eye liner can be discouraging to an eye liner beginner. If you're using liquid for one of the first times and find that you're having problems, use pencil eyeliner first and draw along your lashline of where you want the liquid to go.

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III. CAKE EYELINER
(+ eyeliner brush):
Dip the tip of your brush into a bit of water and glide across the cake eyeliner (usually a highly pigmented eyeshadow, almost creamy-like in texture). Tap the brush twice to get rid of excess cakeliner bits (to prevent them from falling on your face and smearing). Apply accordingly.
Benefits:
  • ideal for those who prefer more of a natural look similar to what eyeliner pencil gives
  • cake formula is longer lasting than a pencil (but still not as long as liquid liner)
  • fairly easy to use with an angled brush
Disadvantages:
  • stray flakes can become messy and lead to smears on the face
  • two part process - need a brush for application
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IV. GEL EYELINER
(+ eyeliner brush):
Apply in a manner similar to applying cake eyeliner (minus the dipping brush into water part). With gel eyeliner, you can create a line that is more defined than pencil eyeliner, but not as harsh as the line you would get when using liquid liner. Lasting power of gel eyeliner is also longer than pencil eyeliner, but less than the durability of liquid liner.
Benefits:
  • ideal for all applications from natural to dramatic
  • can build up intensity
  • less messy than cake eyeliner when things go wrong
Disadvantages:
  • two part application process requiring a brush
  • not as widely available as pencil eyeliners
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V. EYESHADOW
(+ brush):
Yes, eyeshadow has multiple uses! Use it as an eyeliner by applying it either wet/dry with an eyeliner brush. Use a wet brush for a more intense look; a dry brush for a softer look. Swipe the brush across the eyeshadow and tap it twice to rid the brush of any excess flakes. Line the eyes, staying close to the lashline always.
Benefits:
  • good for beginners to experts
  • no need to buy another product - less to carry in your kit
  • good for natural or intense looks - change it up by applying it dry or wet
Disadvantages:
  • similar to cake eyeliner, can get messy when eyeshadow flakes stray on other parts of the face
  • not as long lasting as other eyeliner types
  • usually requires a brush for application
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With eyeliner, always remember that you won't always get it straight (literally) the first time, but that it takes practice to achieve perfection. Once you get a firm handle on applications with pencils, with daily practice (and patience), you'll soon enough become an expert with gel liners and liquids! Have fun!

Posted by Rhia Amio, Make-up Artist www.artistrhi.com | 5:00 PM | , , , , , , , , , | 1 comments »
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