Ever get fed up with an attempt at doing a smoky eye look due to straying bits of dark eyeshadow? Most black eyeshadows, even from higher end lines, tend to flake and get on areas around the eye where we didn't intend for them to be. For instance, the undereye area, which if it's anything like mine, has it's own natural darkness that definitely doesn't need any further shadow enhancement! But rest assured, there are some artist tricks around this. Try a couple of these tips that I stick to in my applications to get a professional smoky look minus the raccoon eye!

1. After applying concealer and foundation, lightly pat some loose translucent eyeshadow on the undereye area to catch any fly-away bits of eyeshadow. You don't need to blend this layer of powder (see the pic above), as it's meant to act as a barrier between the eyeshadow and your skin. The layer can be easily wiped away once you are done applying any dark shadows, and voila! Crisis averted.
Remember: Once you apply powder, your concealer and foundation are set. If you still plan on applying concealer or foundation after the dark eye shadow application, skip this tip.

2. Wet the applicator slightly before you dip it in your dark coloured eyeshadow so that the eyeshadow adheres to it better.

3. Once you have dipped your brush/applicator in the dark coloured eyeshadow, tap away the excess to prevent it from landing where you don't want it to.

4. Try cream eyeshadows. You have to be a lot quicker working with these than powder eyeshadows, but among the benefits of cream eyeshadows is that they last throughout the day and will also stay where you apply it!

Posted by Rhia Amio, Make-up Artist www.artistrhi.com | 1:15 PM | , , , , , , | 0 comments »

If you find that you tend to wipe away your concealer when applying foundation, try these tips:

1. Use a stipple motion when applying concealer and foundation. Use this light patting motion to build up coverage instead of using a wiping motion that tends to wipe away all that you have already applied. Blend, blend, blend.

2. You can apply concealer before or after foundation – just stick to using this stipple method to prevent undoing what you’ve already put on. Some prefer to put on concealer first and then blend the colour of the concealer when applying their foundation. Others prefer to put on foundation first, as they won't have to use as much concealer when applying it after.
Note: If the concealer you use is lighter than your skin tone (i.e. to camouflage dark circles under the eye), then I would recommend applying it before foundation.

3. Use your ring finger (as it has the least amount of intensity and pressure) to blend the delicate area under the eye. The warmth of your finger will help to blend the cream make-up of the undereye area in with the rest of the skin.

4. Set the look with some powder, which seals the look and provides extra staying power. Use a dense brush to lightly dust loose powder all over your face or lightly pat it on with a make-up sponge.

Remember around the eyes especially, you want to use just the right amount of concealer. Otherwise, it will appear 'cakey' (and fakey!) and draw the wrong kind of attention to your eyes!

Posted by Rhia Amio, Make-up Artist www.artistrhi.com | 9:12 AM | , , , , , , , | 0 comments »

For maximal coverage for scars and blemishes, try a formula that is more sticky and paste-like in texture. This type of formula is ideal for when you're attempting to conceal oil-prone areas, as liquid concealer is not thick enough and won't give the coverage desired.

Application Tips:

  • When covering up acne or older scars, use a q-tip to pat on the paste concealer. You only need a tiny amount to cover the area and the small application are of a q-tip is perfect for this. Using a q-tip will also reduce any acne-producing bacteria from contaminating your concealer brush.
  • To apply the concealer, use a stipple motion rather than a wiping motion - doing so ensures you don't wipe off the product you have placed on your face. Blend the outer edges of where you placed the concealer. Set the application with a dusting of translucent powder.
  • If you're trying to cover up a scar that is still healing, concentrate some moisturizer on top of the scar, as its texture will tend to be dry and crusty. This will help to smooth the surface of the scar and you can follow the steps above in applying concealer immediately with ease.
See more tips on perfecting the skin here.

Posted by Rhia Amio, Make-up Artist www.artistrhi.com | 5:51 PM | , , , , , , , | 0 comments »

Don't be intimidated - modern eyelash curlers no longer resemble medieval torture devices! Eyelash curlers can make a world of difference, especially for those who desire a wide-eyed look. For my lashes (like most Asian eyelashes) that tend to grow straight downward, a eyelash curler is an absolute kit essential! I like to use the one displayed below as the flatter edge allows me to get right at the root of the lashes. Check out these helpful hints for maximizing your own lash potential:

1. Use the curler in a pumping motion starting at the base/root of the top set of lashes.

2. Continue this pumping motion as you bring the eyelash curler away from you in an upward motion (try to think of it as curling the lashwards upwards to open them up).

Curling the lashes this way helps to give the curl a more natural look. If you tend to curl the lashes just at the base, the lashes tend to shoot straight up and appear less natural (when viewed from your side profile).

3. Last but not least, finish with mascara. After curling the eyelashes remember to set the curl with your fave mascara. Hold the mascara wand at the base of the lashes, and wiggle the wand upward and away from you. One to two coats are usually enough.

4. You can use either clear mascara to define the bottom set of lashes, or after you have applied mascara to the top lashes, use the excess on the brush to lightly glide over the bottom set. Avoid using too much mascara on the bottom lashes, as they are naturally thinnerthan the top set. If you go too thick on the bottom set, you can risk looking like a clown or getting a 'spider-like' effect.

Posted by Rhia Amio, Make-up Artist www.artistrhi.com | 2:49 PM | , , , , , , , , | 0 comments »

Q: How do I minimize my under-eye circles with make-up? My concealer just doesn't seem to cover it.
The usual recommendation for concealing dark circles around the eyes is to look for a concealer that is (no more than) two shades lighter than your skin tone colour. For light underye circles, this trick should be enough. For more prominent circles, I prefer to use a shade of orange or peach colour concealer, depending on the client's skin tone.

Use a light application and build layers. Concealer that is too cakey around the eyes will look to obvious and produce a reverse raccoon eye effect. After the peach concealer is applied, follow with your skin-tone coloured concealer or foundation to blend the area with the rest of your skin tone. Set the area with a light dusting of powder and voila!

Recommended products
MAC Select Cover-up in Peach

Posted by Rhia Amio, Make-up Artist www.artistrhi.com | 10:56 AM | , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments »
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